"We were the subject of trundlers..."

That happens at Dome Rock, near the Needles all the time too. A couple years ago I was sitting at the base and a softball sized rock hit right next to me. Next time I go there I will be sure to take my 12 ga shotgun. Can't really hurt anyone at that distance but it'll sure get their attention.

We ought to think twice about making all those dicey old aid routes into bomber clip and go's. Bomber belays for sure, but how about just letting those who actually do those routes replace lead bolts on a case by case basis (like when they fail?) as opposed to calling in the ASCA boys for a complete retrofit?

Ok, sure, the ASCA boys don't have to always be involved but it's nice to get the gear free to do the replacements.

<i>"....but how about just letting those who actually do those routes replace lead bolts on a case by case basis (like when they fail?)</i>

Ummm......I lead the route. A2 time bombs ready to go off, Kris. As for "failing"....go check out the 4th bolt (just a stud....no hanger) on pitch #1. Sticks 3/4" out and tilts downward. I was afraid to even check if it pulled straight out. I personally have no reservations doing retro work on it.

It was a great weekend. <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/user_link.pl/user_id/17520">Pavel </a>and I drove from the Bay Area on Thursday night and slept outside near Sonora Pass. On Friday we made our way up Little Lakes Valley through the gorgeous high country, while getting hailed on and wondering if it is really June and not... March. On Saturday we climbed the <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/show/route_link.pl/route_id/249/object_id/494">North Arete</a> of Bear Creek Spire under the deep blue skies. This got to be some of the cleanest pieces of granite I've climbed on in the Sierra to date. On Sunday, we enjoyed a soak in local hot springs and a lunch at <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/show/mountain_link.pl/mountain_id/3576">Whoa Nelli Deli</a> before making an unusually early drive home. I have to say it again... work is overrated!!

Congrats Misha - great climb yes!

Back to Dave and Craig one last time. OK Guys, since I haven't done this route I guess I should limit my comments. All I meant was to suggest that thought be given before all these old aid lines are made into "Cal Osha" standard clip and go deals (A0.) This tends to happen when an organized outfit like asca gets involved.

I've done pitches on the Captain (rated a2/a3) where you use a series of old aluminun dowels with duct tape wadded on the ends to keep your wire from slippping off. Every third or fouth one you would come to a decent bolt some one climbing the route had placed to keep it sane. I just think that gear safety on a lot of these old aid routes can be handled perfectly well by those who - like you Dave and Craig - go out to do them. You got up just fine, had some fun, and could if you had wanted replaced some gear. It's different when someone comes in expressly for the purpose of "making it safe," and just replaces everything on the climb. Something of the character of a climb can be lost when this happens, I think.

Cheers

The bolt ladder on 'Laughing At The Void' was no A0 IMO! The "ladder" was stretched out so much that Deb had to stick clip from the top step! I guess Kareem Abdul-Jabar did the FA.
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Seriously though, a few of those bolts (especially the bolt stud that appeared to have no anchor....just screwed into the rock!) needed some "attention".....

Good feedback Kris but not everyone sees what you sees...

Sunday, Shannon and I had an interesting day at Tahquitz 5.6 earthquake included, fortunately we hadn't reached the base of the rock yet and had time to assess whether to continue our approach. Never heard or saw any evidence of rockfall, so we attacked Wong/Long Climb (5.8, 6 pitches) and the North Gullet descent. Beautiful day and I never saw so much blood coming out of the Mummy Crack before - sorry Shannon but that really wasn't me laughing!

Weekend?? The last two weeks have been a blur. My wife gave birth to a baby girl of almost 8 lbs (3.6kg). We are all very happy, very busy and quite tired. What an amazing experience. I can't wait to introduce her to the mountains (though she will probably keep me from them for a while

Carbo, congratulations on your new daughter!

Thanks Steve

This past weekend in Yosemite Valley was relaxing and fun but punctuated by brief moments of terror.

<b>Friday</b> was classified as "relaxing". After brief periods of rain, most of the day was spent poking around, aid-bouldering, and getting piton/hook practice. Of course, the Thai food, delicious wine, and friendly conversation lasted late into the evening and there couldn't have been a nicer end to the day.

<b>Saturday</b> was simply "terrifying". After Craig led the first pitch of Dihedral Wall on El Capitan, I led (or started to lead, more accurately) the second pitch (rated C2). I struggled with gear placements and in the end, put way too many small cams in the rock instead of using nuts -- especially in old pin scars. After climbing up maybe 30 feet, all of a sudden El Capitan decided to fly upward at an alarmingly quick pace. The upward motion of the mountain was accompanied by a disturbing *ping ping ziiiiip ziiiip* noise as my gear zippered out. The mountain finally came to a stop with me dangling down just a few feet above a ledge -- directly across from my stunned belayer. I finally came to the realization that <b>*I*</b> was the one who had fallen. A big thank you to Craig and the red HB offset nut.

<b>Sunday</b> could only be classified at "fun", even though I was still feeling rattled by the previous day's events. After jumaring back up to the beginning of P2, Craig finished my miserable P2 lead and Shirley & I topped out at a stunning sling belay. The cleaning was difficult but I learned a lot about gear placements -- many things I never knew. One thing I know for sure is that Craig's gear was a lot more secure. Hopefully I'll improve my nut placements and have a better idea of what's solid and what's not.

It amazes me that for so long I've thought my gear placements acceptable when, in fact, they may not have been at all. If you're a free climber-turned-aid climber like me, consider that when aid climbing you are essentially "falling" on every single piece of gear you place. How many times have you fallen on your own gear? For me it's been maybe two times in 10 years. Nothing other than stepping on your own gear can give you such immediate feedback!

Dave, Deb, and Daniel -- it was very nice to meet you. Happy and safe climbing all.

DustysDawg and I spent a looooong day climbing the North Buttress of Mt. Goode. We left the car around 4:30 and didn't get back until after 10:00 pm. Sketchy snow at the top on the descent and wretched suncups had us both muttering under out breath, "I never want to see snow again!" all the way down. On the other hand, it was a greeat climb!

Nice job, Steve & DustysDawg! I am envious...

What Misha said, and you too Carolyn.

I only got to work on my friction slab technique near Shaver Lake on Saturday. Sunday was mostly about bushwhacking (heinous).

Saturday- Peak 10,805. awesome winter day in june

Sunday-Hike through the famous blooming lupine fields near Sun Valley.

Monday- Peak 9,367, an amazing peak in the Sawtooth.

Damn, I wish I could do that every weekend!

I took eight people up the Cactus to Clouds trail last Saturday (seven last week). We started at 2.30 am and were up to the tram at 10.30 am. After that three more hours towards San Jacinto. The snow was hard in the shade and slushy in the sun. The majority voted to turn back before the summit. Pictures tomorrow on www.hiking-in-ps.com view photo gallery