Polish Direct Conditions?

Regional discussion and conditions reports for South America. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the South American Climbing Partners section.
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innuksuk

 
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Polish Direct Conditions?

by innuksuk » Wed Jan 10, 2007 12:20 pm

Hi all,

Anyone back recently or even in Mendoza now? I need to know what the glacier is like, particularly the direct route. Is it chossed up, penitenteyed and is there much ice showing through?
Will be there late Feb/early March, but would just like a guesstimate on the successes this year on that route, or advice from those that have done it this year/talked to people who've done it etc.

cheers

col

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Brad Marshall

 
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by Brad Marshall » Sat Jan 20, 2007 9:26 pm

We just returned from Mendoza last weekend. Two climbers on our expedition completed the Polish Direct but it took them a long time. They reported poor snow conditions and plenty of ice. By the time you arrive I would suspect the glacier would be much drier making the route more difficult and dangerous. The nice thing about this approach however is that it gives you the opportunity to opt for the False Traverse in such situations.


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