Monte Disgrazia conditions

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morceaux

 
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Monte Disgrazia conditions

by morceaux » Thu Oct 11, 2007 11:55 am

With three of my friends we plan to climb Monte Disgrazia from the south, via Cresta Corna Rossa next weekend (our tour will take place from 19th October to 23rd October).
I couldn't find reliable information whether Rifugio Desio is open or not, or if it has a winter room. Maybe should we try Rifugio Ponti instead? Is there a path to the Cresta Corna Rossa from Rif Ponti? What is the highest elevation reachable by car?
Information about roads (both from Ciappanico and Preda Rossa) would be also appreciated. Will these roads be open by that time?

Any hints and suggestions are appreciated.

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Gabriele Roth

 
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by Gabriele Roth » Thu Oct 11, 2007 12:24 pm

As for I've seen last sunday on the higher part of Disgrazia (from East) there is a little snow remaining from the snowfall of some weeks ago. (give a look to my recent posts)
Best starting point should be the Ponti: you'd better ask to the keeper (mr. Ezio Cassina of Filorera - tel. 0342.640138) for the availability of the refuge and for the road conditions
The winter part hasn't cooking tools (nor gas)

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morceaux

 
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by morceaux » Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:57 am

Does anyone have a topo for Via Baroni route?
Or info about where could I find it?

Thanks a lot in advance.

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Gabriele Roth

 
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by Gabriele Roth » Wed Oct 17, 2007 12:14 pm

the Baroni route follows the SW spur and maybe a little dangerous for stone falls, better go on along the WNW ridge (Cresta di Pioda) that is a route that can be always climbed (the ski-mountaneering route) - difficulties are similar !
The starting points are :
- for the Baroni : the upper glacier of Preda Rossa (above the crevasses) on the W side of the spur, then, once got the spur, straight on along it till the last ledges driving to the WNW ridge - good for coming down
- for the WNW ridge : the Sella di Pioda (the saddle left of the ridge) bordering on the right the first steps and following the ridge

hereunder a link to a good description
in English http://www.huts-bivouacs.com/rifugio.cfm?id=60
in Deutsch http://www.huetten-biwaks.com/rifugio.cfm?id=60

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morceaux

 
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by morceaux » Wed Oct 17, 2007 12:43 pm

Thank you very much Gabriele!

Now I only wonder what are the conditions with the glacier. Is it very crevassed?
Maybe we will find some fresh snow on it.
Since one of my friends have problems with his eyes, he will climb rock in Val di Mello with his girlfriend, so I we will be only two climbing Disgrazia, and that's not the safest on glaciers, that is why I'm asking.
I think we will choose WNW ridge finally. I don't want any rockfalls - since a collapsed ridge made me turn around last weekend on Monte Canin Alta Via Resiana route.

We plan to go up to Rifugio Ponti on Saturday (after an all-night driving from home), summit day for Sunday, descent the same day or maybe Monday, and on Tuesday some rock climbing if we had some energy left :)

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Gabriele Roth

 
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by Gabriele Roth » Wed Oct 17, 2007 12:55 pm

I've been there only once, at the beginning of may, many years ago, with skis ...
but I don't think that the glacier can be an obstacle even if completely without snow

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morceaux

 
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by morceaux » Wed Oct 17, 2007 1:10 pm

Without snow is not a problem, then the crevasses are visible.
If we find a considerable amount of fresh snow, then we won't see the crevasses, and that would be a question to think about...
OK, maybe I'm a bit nervous. I had lots of turnarounds this year and that frustrates me a bit.
Weather is going to be fine but cold. We expect some -10 -15 °C on the summit area.

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Cyrill

 
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by Cyrill » Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:23 pm

I haeve a link for the Disgrazia:

http://www.hikr.org/tour/post1302.html


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