Mont Blanc - rope and distance info needed

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Mile Bosnjakovski

 
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Mont Blanc - rope and distance info needed

by Mile Bosnjakovski » Tue Aug 05, 2008 12:19 pm

Since on the page (http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock ... chapter_14) I could not find gear section :roll: I submitting this post.

Can anybody tell me about rope usage on Mont Blanc via Normal Route, Gouter:

• Is it essential or only recommended?
• As I read the most dangerous part is Grand Couloir but according to the information this part should be passed in so call sprint solo?
• Or I’m wrong rope is needed for crevasses? But where exactly?

Also I would appreciate if anyone knows the following information:

From - Nid d'Aigle to Tête Rousse hut how long is trail in Km?
From - Tête Rousse hut to Goûter hut how long is trail in Km?
From - Goûter hut to the summit how long is in Km?

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Charles

 
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Re: Mont Blanc - rope and distance info needed

by Charles » Tue Aug 05, 2008 1:01 pm

Mile Bosnjakovski wrote:Since on the page (http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock ... chapter_14) I could not find gear section :roll: I submitting this post.

Can anybody tell me about rope usage on Mont Blanc via Normal Route, Gouter:

• Is it essential or only recommended?
• As I read the most dangerous part is Grand Couloir but according to the information this part should be passed in so call sprint solo?
• Or I’m wrong rope is needed for crevasses? But where exactly?

Also I would appreciate if anyone knows the following information:

From - Nid d'Aigle to Tête Rousse hut how long is trail in Km?
From - Tête Rousse hut to Goûter hut how long is trail in Km?
From - Goûter hut to the summit how long is in Km?


Although not hard route technically there are a few sections where I would not want to fall. There is also some cravass danger. The G C has a fixed cable across it which you can hook onto using a long sling - then run for it!
I don´t know why you want km distances - it´s more the ascent you should be thinking about - IMHO. It´s a couple of hours to the TR hut then a couple of hours to the G h

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Mile Bosnjakovski

 
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Re: Mont Blanc - rope and distance info needed

by Mile Bosnjakovski » Tue Aug 05, 2008 2:16 pm

charles wrote:
Mile Bosnjakovski wrote:Since on the page (http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock ... chapter_14) I could not find gear section :roll: I submitting this post.

Can anybody tell me about rope usage on Mont Blanc via Normal Route, Gouter:

• Is it essential or only recommended?
• As I read the most dangerous part is Grand Couloir but according to the information this part should be passed in so call sprint solo?
• Or I’m wrong rope is needed for crevasses? But where exactly?

Also I would appreciate if anyone knows the following information:

From - Nid d'Aigle to Tête Rousse hut how long is trail in Km?
From - Tête Rousse hut to Goûter hut how long is trail in Km?
From - Goûter hut to the summit how long is in Km?


Although not hard route technically there are a few sections where I would not want to fall. There is also some cravass danger. The G C has a fixed cable across it which you can hook onto using a long sling - then run for it!
I don´t know why you want km distances - it´s more the ascent you should be thinking about - IMHO. It´s a couple of hours to the TR hut then a couple of hours to the G h


I need info for ( Km) so I could make my own comparison with my previous climbs because I found it is very visible for me to think like this. Thanks for the answer.

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Mihai Tanase

 
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Km ?

by Mihai Tanase » Tue Aug 05, 2008 2:33 pm

Sorry, but Mont Blanc range is not a flat terrain, so is unserious to make calculations. The average durations between TMB, huts and top are as follows :

Nid d'Aigle - Tête Rousse : 3h
Tête Rousse - Goûter : 3h
Goûter - mont Blanc : 5h

According to your training and experience, you could be faster or slower. But anyway, dont' forget, mont Blanc will be at the same place next year ! Take it easy :wink:

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Mile Bosnjakovski

 
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Re: Km ?

by Mile Bosnjakovski » Wed Aug 06, 2008 9:32 am

Mihai Tanase wrote:Sorry, but Mont Blanc range is not a flat terrain, so is unserious to make calculations. The average durations between TMB, huts and top are as follows :

Nid d'Aigle - Tête Rousse : 3h
Tête Rousse - Goûter : 3h
Goûter - mont Blanc : 5h

According to your training and experience, you could be faster or slower. But anyway, dont' forget, mont Blanc will be at the same place next year ! Take it easy :wink:



WOW I was not aware that Mont Blanc is not flat :? :D
Mihai common please you are insulting my intelligence please. :)
I’m quite sure that I can make comparison with Grossglockner and Triglav (hours – vs – Km). My calculations are serious for me and they are giving me another perspective.
Thanks for your info, anyway.

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Graham Meigh

 
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Re: Km ?

by Graham Meigh » Wed Sep 03, 2008 11:50 pm

The higher altitude and complex terrain make any comparisons with Grossglockner dangerous and Triglav is not in the same league.

Take a friend, take a rope, take your time and enjoy the time on the mountain. The hours quoted previously are correct.

Savour the moment.

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Gabriele Roth

 
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Re: Km ?

by Gabriele Roth » Thu Sep 04, 2008 6:34 am

Mile Bosnjakovski wrote:I’m quite sure that I can make comparison with Grossglockner and Triglav (hours – vs – Km). My calculations are serious for me and they are giving me another perspective.

:?: :?: :?:

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Moni

 
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by Moni » Thu Sep 04, 2008 11:16 pm

When I sprinted across the Grand Couloir, there was no cable and I don't think I'd want to hook in. Otherwise it is a one at a time quick crossing.

Above the Gouter hut you are on glacier and the summit crest is quite exposed, so gear normal to glacier crossings and climbing is recommended.

Nid d'Aigle to Gouter hut: 1421 vertical ascent.
Gouter hut to summit: 944 meters vertical ascent.

Based on rough estimates using UTM coordinates and Google Earth, it's about 4 1/2 km from Nid d'Aigle to the summit of Mt Blanc.

The times given in the previous posts correspond to our personal experience.

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Diego Sahagún

 
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by Diego Sahagún » Thu Sep 04, 2008 11:40 pm

As Mihai has said distances on high mountains are irrelevant. Take it easy Mile, we reached the summit that way after another attempt about ten years before wich was more demanding, three nights in tents instead of one in a crowded hut

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Mile Bosnjakovski

 
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by Mile Bosnjakovski » Mon Sep 15, 2008 9:11 am

Finishing words on the discussion after the climb on MB

We got up to Valot refugee and the weather was very bad so we turn back to De Gouter hut. On a way back just before the place where tents are we notice an Ice Axe and a Gloves down and huge Crevasse after them – so we done a fast to Gouter hut to report it – after 30 minutes a rescue team and chopper came and they got the man down safe.
A unique and interesting experience.
So thanks to the most of contributors on the topic especially Mony it was useful :) :).

For the some of the others especially Gabriele –

• You are right it is “not comparable” – the North Side of Triglav is much more demanding than MB, and for Gross I will not spear words. (Yes I’m little cynic here to be clear)


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