Keeping Warm in the Cordillera Blanca

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m_dquist

 
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Keeping Warm in the Cordillera Blanca

by m_dquist » Sat Feb 23, 2008 9:42 pm

I'm heading to Peru this summer with plans to climb routes on peaks of 6000+ meters. Anyone been? Anyone get way too hot or way too cold? How warm of a sleeping bag should I take, and what kind of boots? Anyone have ideas of daytime highs and overnight lows at, say, 5000m? 6000m? I was thinking a -10 F bag and leathers with supergaiters, but if anyone has any reason why I should do something different I'd like to hear about it. Thanks!

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MichaelJ

 
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by MichaelJ » Mon Feb 25, 2008 1:33 am

I used plastic boots and a 20 degree bag (sometimes sleeping with a bivy jacket) last season to climb a number of technical 6k peaks. I think your bag would be much too warm (at least for me) at any base camp.

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TonyP

 
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by TonyP » Tue Feb 26, 2008 2:56 am

Same as michaelJ. Plastic boots and 20 degree bag. I slept with my optimus jacket and felt toasty both in July and december. I'll also be there this summer.

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sbr

 
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by sbr » Fri Mar 21, 2008 6:29 pm

so from your replies I suspect a lightweight down jacket will do. and expedition boots would be way too warm even for huascaran?

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Captnbaker

 
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Gear for Cordillera Blanca

by Captnbaker » Fri Jun 20, 2008 4:40 am

I am also headed to the Cordillera Blanca to climb in July and August.

I have read in numerous sites that the temps can get quite cold. Several of the guided climb "gear lists" say to bring a very warm sleeping bag (-20) and an expedition weitght down jacket. Can anyone shed light on this? Does anyone know actual temps?

Also, what size pack do you recommend. What are most of the approaches like and is an 85 L pack necessary?

Thanks.

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MichaelJ

 
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by MichaelJ » Fri Jun 20, 2008 5:41 am

I have no idea how cold it actually gets, although I do know that all of my friends and partners were fine with 20 degree bags. One used a zero but he slept in his briefs.

I can't imagine lugging a -20 bag around the Blanca, although I guess you would need an 85l pack for that.

"Most" approaches? Could you be a tad more specific? What are you climbing? I never needed anything bigger than a 45l pack.

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msumountainman

 
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by msumountainman » Mon Jun 23, 2008 1:02 am

I'll be climbing Huascaran this July, so I was actually wondering this same question. I did see many guide service websites that recommended a -20 F bag. I am planning to bring a 0 degree bag as I think my -40 F bag would be overkill.

I'm wondering what other people have used and recommend for Huascaran?

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TonyP

 
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by TonyP » Wed Jun 25, 2008 5:50 pm

20 degree bag is plenty...

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KevinCraig

 
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by KevinCraig » Wed Jul 09, 2008 5:24 am

Don't know if it's too late, but...

I took a 0 deg. bag and was glad to have it for Tocllaraju and Alpamayo high camp. I imagine I would want it for Huascaran too. Also, I used Sportiva Spantik boots and was similarly glad. All in our group had double of some kind (and were very experienced in SA climbing). Leathers might be a bit cool unless your feet stay very toasty.

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georgen

 
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by georgen » Fri Oct 24, 2008 12:29 pm

MichaelJ wrote:I used plastic boots and a 20 degree bag (sometimes sleeping with a bivy jacket) last season to climb a number of technical 6k peaks. I think your bag would be much too warm (at least for me) at any base camp.
do you think that Scarpa top nepal is enough for 6000m? :?:


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