Hi Peter, how are things going? My own information about the area is now outdated since I was last there in 1996, but I think its a good idea to drop SP member Corax a line about this matter, as he seems to be very well informed about it.

Cheers, Johan

Peter,

I had missed this one.
Johan is right, I have not been climbing any of the Bezengi peaks from the Georgian side. I'm not sure if I would like to either, when the alternative is so good. Easy access from Russia and also a very good alpine base, where you can get loads of information about all the peaks.
It can for sure be an issue if you shoot for Shchara. A tough one and as much first hand info as possible is important.

I've been thinking a lot about going there next summer as well and in that case I will shoot for <a href=http://www.mountain.ru/eng/climb/2005/bezengi_travers/>this traverse.</a>

If that looks interesting to you or anyone else, drop me a line.

Hey Peter, I hope this message comes still prior to your trip. I have been in Svaneti, but did not do extensive climbing over there. However, I have a some information concerning safety issues at the remote valley of Svaneti.

Svans deal in absolutism. If you are accepted as a guest, nothing will be spared to please you (meals, loads of drinks, transport etc). If you are known by the community to be someones guest, you have no worries of becoming a victim of a crime. However, if you come unprepared and have no local contacts of any kind, there is a great chance that you will be robbed. Nummerous cases of robberies have been reported over the last summer, so be adviced. Though every shepperd seems to be carrying Kalasnikovs of all possible kalibers, things won't get worse than robberies. The are no kidnappers / killers / extremists / freedomfighters.

Finally, and very importantly, climbers are greatly respected by the Svans, since Mestia in Svaneti produced one of the greatest Russian climbers ever (Gergiani, aka Kerkiani). If you are coming to tackle Ushba or Schkara or another great mountain dominating the lush scenery over Svaneti, you will receive nothing but honours. If you make your climbing intentions clear to the Svans, you will be considered a honoured guest and no harm will come to you. Robberies appear to be restricted to day-trip tourists, unprepared back-packers and fat old and spoilt 65+ people.

From what I personally saw and heard about the Svaneti side of the main Caucasus ridge, the south face of the southern Ushba and the Schkara are amongst the most difficult in the entire Caucasus, not in the last place by its free exposure to the sun and the associated rock fall, avalanges and melting ice, but perhaps you can find a SP member who has actually climbed one of these routes.

All the best,

Pulsar