Engineer Mountain North Face

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the U.S. Rocky Mountains. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Colorado Climbing Partners section.
no avatar
Jeeb

 
Posts: 14
Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 6:22 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Engineer Mountain North Face

by Jeeb » Wed Jan 20, 2010 4:28 pm

Anyone who has been to engineer mountain knows that the north side is a 1000ft, dispicabley rotten face. Me and a buddy attempted a steep direct couloir (50-60 degrees) with intermittent sections of high angle mixed climbing and deep snow this winter. All gear placements (including anchors) were marginal at best and the leading was always runnot due to the extremely rotten rock. The rotten rock made progress very slow and cold. After 800ft we were forced to bail due to time restraints. It seems unlikely that anyone would climb this route in summer, since there would be no snow or ice to keep at least some of the rock in place. So I'm wondering if anyone has attempted this or another route on the face or has heard of someone who has.

no avatar
Jeeb

 
Posts: 14
Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 6:22 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

by Jeeb » Wed Jan 20, 2010 10:43 pm

I'll be able to get the photos as soon as my buddy posts them on facebook. There aren't too many, but they do portray the steepness and rotten rock. The approach to the base of the face is perfect degree for bad news: 35 degrees and no sun. But we went up after a long period of no snow, so it was legit. Beacons always recommended though. The ridge is pretty fun too in winter, big and steep and windblown and offers some great lines for skiing on the SW side of the mountain all the way down to the highway. when I get the photos on here ill say so on this forum.


Return to Colorado

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests