Last week there was an AAC survey notice e-mailed out (mentioned and linked in an earlier forum post). I dutifully filled it out and sent it in, but it got me thinking about how I would really like to see the organization change. What are your thoughts? How would those of you who are members or past members do thing differently if you were put in charge? My initial thoughts are below.

Insurance: I would like to see a much better insurance offering. It seems like the Club could take its member rolls and negotiate a similar deal with a national/international carrier as The Alpine Club (UK) has. I would gladly increase my dues if it meant that I wouldn’t have to worry about the uninsured cost of toting my carcass off a mountain and its affect on family finances (I get to keep living in that scenario).

AAJ: I would like to see quality writing and editing to kick it up a notch or three and include: fantastic trip reports, relevant historical climbing/mountaineering articles and bios of great climbers. In addition to the lower writing standards, I have also noticed the last few years that the binding has gotten cheaper and cheaper. My 2008 and 2007 editions both have cracked bindings after just one read through and '08 let go of some pages as I was reading. I would pay more for quality and it would warm the cockles of my dark soul it a hard cover edition was offered.

ANAM: Is a sad , sad little pamphlet. I 100% agree with its mission, but the execution of that goal is wanting. How many people took falls in Eldo or in J-Tree that were not documented last year? Seven accidents that required a hospital trip that I know of and I live in Seattle! Yes, I understand that they can’t go asking hospitals because of patient confidentiality, but how hard would it be to have an e-mail address for accident reporting and for a staffer to do a little follow up? What about pinging the climbing community here on SP, mountainproject, and super topo? If your are going to go through the trouble and expense (my dues!) to produce something, then make it the best possible book you can.

Local events: The AAC does a poor job of hosting local events and getting climbers in the same region together. Find a hall in Golden/Co Springs/New Paltz/Vegas/J-Tree/Bay Area/Seattle/Portland/Salt Lake City/Orange County/etc… give a talk by a local than a national or international climber, put up some posters, sell back copies of the AAJ, raffle something off for a climbing charity (Himalayan Trust, Central Asia Institute, et al…) have snacks, advertize well and charge at the door to cover costs. Get local climbers together.

Again, what would you do?

I'd probably submit such well-thought requests directly to the AAC instead of a mountain forum.

I completed the survey, but yeah, I'd like electronic library and also more regional local events that are more accessible. Not $300 pp black-tie dinners!

MarthaP wrote:I'd probably submit such well-thought requests directly to the AAC instead of a mountain forum.

The thought was to do exactly that, though with more voices than my own. One person squawking is an annoyance, but when a group has something to say, there is a better chance of being heard. A thread spelling out observed deficiencies and wants would speak volumes as some on the members of the AAC staff also belong to SP...

Both the AAC and climbing magazines are being replaced by free web sites like SummitPost.org.

Executives at these organizations need to be in these forums every day getting the drift.

The insurance at AAC is awesome and should be expanded.

AAJ should be online. If I'm going to climb something big I'm coming here to do research, not the AAJ.

Accidents in N. Am Mountaineering is really great. I read it every year but, as you say, it's incomplete. A web site like this or an AAC sponsored web site where people can log their accidents like trip reports would be better.

And Local events are vital to their existence. Ultimately that is up to members like you and I. I hope to offer leadership to local events in the coming years.

AAC is an important organization, it just needs to be updated.

I envision it's beginning as a clubhouse in NYC where wealth mountaineers gathered for a drink and stories. That same camaraderie exists now in forums, and with a little organization, pubs, across the USA.

They should have thought of SummitPost first.

I will always be in no matter what they do.

This discussion is timely and this is the right place to do it.

Cookie Addict wrote:

MarthaP wrote:I'd probably submit such well-thought requests directly to the AAC instead of a mountain forum.

The thought was to do exactly that, though with more voices than my own. One person squawking is an annoyance, but when a group has something to say, there is a better chance of being heard. A thread spelling out observed deficiencies and wants would speak volumes as some on the members of the AAC staff also belong to SP...

Sure, but I doubt an AAC board or staff member is going to come to the website just to see what's being said. Unfortunately most of them are pounding the road looking for ways to increase funding when donations are down, costs are up, endowments are history...you know the story. Pretty much everything you're asking costs something so while you're coming up with suggestions, howabout some salient solutions? Not everyone's going to want to pay more for stuff just 'cause you're willing.

Regarding meets, I just wanted to mention that I took part in the second international climbers meet (and subsequent Cragging Classic in Salt Lake), in Indian Creek last October, coming from Denmark, and that it seriously kicked ass. I'm not a member of the AAC so can't really comment on the rest of your critics.

MarthaP wrote:

Cookie Addict wrote:

MarthaP wrote:I'd probably submit such well-thought requests directly to the AAC instead of a mountain forum.

The thought was to do exactly that, though with more voices than my own. One person squawking is an annoyance, but when a group has something to say, there is a better chance of being heard. A thread spelling out observed deficiencies and wants would speak volumes as some on the members of the AAC staff also belong to SP...

Sure, but I doubt an AAC board or staff member is going to come to the website just to see what's being said.

So obviously, no discussion should take place, right?

I rather like that Cookie Addict has brought this topic up for discussion prior to potentially submitting some ideas.

edited for syntax

The Annual Benefit & Awards dinner this year is 20 Feb. It is $150/250 for members (single/couple) and $200/$300 for non members. Cheers!

welle wrote:I completed the survey, but yeah, I'd like electronic library and also more regional local events that are more accessible. Not $300 pp black-tie dinners!

MarthaP wrote:Sure, but I doubt an AAC board or staff member is going to come to the website just to see what's being said...

Pretty much everything you're asking costs something so while you're coming up with suggestions, how about some salient solutions? Not everyone's going to want to pay more for stuff just 'cause you're willing.

Hmmm. To your first point. I do not expect a board member to 'surf on down' and take a look at this particular thread. My point that AAC staffers are here on SP and a conversation in this forum where the could take part might lead to conversation around the cooler in Golden. After all is said and done, when those who contribute to the thread, not just stand back and take shots, are done with the discussion a forward to the staff and BoD of the AAC containing the salient points might lead to a better Organization. Sitting back and complaining, while not engaged in action is not a proven avenue to get things done.

To answer point two above: I did offer solutions; using membership numbers and their use in negotiating for better insurance, ideas to make the ANAM better - e-mail addresses are free to add to the AAC server and research can be conducted by current staff, interns, or volunteers. I gave ideas on how to make local gatherings affordable and how they would pay for themselves. An AAC sponsored informal gathering at a pub would cost only the time to call the bar, tell them to expect 150 thirsty climbers, give them a $.50 break on beer with an AAC card, and then to send a notice out to the members' e-mail or just on the website. It would cost a bit more to produce a high quality journal, but with more local gatherings, there would be more local involvement and higher membership. More members equal more dues. More dues equal more money for the AAJ. Aside from that fact, would you prefer to read Climbing or Alpinist? Alpine costs a Hell of a lot more, but isn't an ad rag...

How am I doing for "salient solutions" thus far....

Hmmm....Anyone want to place a bet on this one?!?!

MarthaP wrote:Sure, but I doubt an AAC board or staff member is going to come to the website just to see what's being said.

Cookie - Let's get together and sponsor the AAC Pacific Northwest Cookies & Coffee Pumpfest and Dirtbag Camp at Vantage on Memorial Day!

SpiderSavage wrote:Cookie - Let's get together and sponsor the AAC Pacific Northwest Cookies & Coffee Pumpfest and Dirtbag Camp at Vantage on Memorial Day!

I would actually be down for that. I know a guy who has a couple of acres up Icicle Creek Road. Send me a PM and we can work out some details before unleashing it on the world

I still have not filled out the survey. They also could have local gatherings at the local rock gym. Other climbers there could get interested and want to join

I agree on the insurance issue. I know in some states the best and cheapest rescue insurance available is a fishing license.

Personally, I am very ambivalent about the AAC. I've been a member for nearly 30 years and keep my membership primarily to get the AAJ and for the insurance.

My current ambivalence revolves around the AACs support of the Access Fund. I think the Access Fund misses the point.

Most other outdoor groups that have some sort of activist fund concentrate on conservation, recognizing that preservation and responsible stewardship is key to the sport.

However, the Access Fund seems to be bent on "access" alone, with a "screw the wilderness" attitude. For instance, when there was a debate on placing permanent anchors in designated wilderness areas, the argument should have been to uphold the letter and intent of the wilderness law. That is, to restrict human impact and prohibit the placement of permanent human fixtures in the wilderness. Afterall, the the wilderness is what matters.

But was that the position of the Access Fund? No the AAC and the Access Fund argued that climbers should be able to do whatever the hell they want, regardless if an area has been designated as being protected.

So for now, I'm an AAC member just to get the AAJ.