I usually climb sport and am accustomed to all manner of sh-t going down between Leaders and Belayers and the way they communicate with each other. I am sure some climbers think I am really dangerous because I don't talk much or yell out the "standard commands".
When I start up, I just look at the belayer and if he looks back at me, I climb.
I get to the shuts, I clip a draw into each, clip the rope and fall off.
Look down at belayer, make eye contact, Thumbs up means "dirt"
I only use these commands, "Take" "dirt" or "Off Belay" ---- that one means "I will rap down on my own"
But when Trad climbing its different, you can get along ways away from your belayer and eye contact is usually not possible.
I just say "on-belay" and start belaying.
Rope 1/2 way mark gets to my device I yell.... "halfway"
Rope gets to that 10 meter mark I yell.... "30 feet"
Then count down, 20, 10, "thats me"
If it keeps going I take em off belay and yell.... "Thats me, climbing" and I start up, being careful not to outrun the "belay"....
This has served me and my partners for a long time.
While at Josh last week I was witness to all sorts of screwball stuff.
Like this: Climber starts up after usual -belay on, belay on- deal, he gets up near the top, and says something like this: "almost there, do I have enuf rope?"
Belayer says "yup"
Climber hears it as "nope" .... this starts the questioning back and forth.... they finally work it out that he has lots of rope left.....
Leader gets to the ledge and says..... "Just give me some time to set up a belay....."
The belayer responds, "what?" "Off Belay?"
Leader goes "no no" "I need to build an anchor- wait a second"
Belayer.... "what?"
Belayer.... "can I climb?"
Belayer.... "do you have an anchor?"
Belayer.... "up rope please"
The leader starts to pull up the cord and asks: "are you tied in?"
Belayer.... "lots of rope down here to pull up"
Leader... "what? are you tied in?"
Belayer.... "still losts of rope"
Leader "well please tie in"
Belayer (who is already tied in) "rope"
Leader "nope!!! why not?"
Belayer.... "I need my shoes" "Let me put them on"
Leader.... "What?"
This went on and on ..... sort of like an Abbott and Costello routine. It got really old having these guys climbing on the same formation as us.
Ever have stuff like this go on with you?
Sometimes I feel like going over and telling them to "shut up please, you are giving me a headache and I can't hear my boom - box above your yelling" .....