kewl old skool jtree vid

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ksolem

 
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by ksolem » Sun May 09, 2010 4:54 pm

Yeah I remember when he put that route up. Pretty rad. A few of us tried it a few times and couldn't see it. I don't think any of us went that far out to the left side.

Josh has a number of unrepeated routes. Mostly Scott Cosgrove testpieces. Perhaps Chris Lindner will go on a quest, and do some more?

That's a good video clip. When Lindner was a kid doing hard routes we used to tease him, saying how all those holds would just keep getting smaller (as he got bigger.) Looks like we were wrong.

When I saw your thread topic I thought I was going to see Mike Paul doing Stem Gem barefoot facing out, playing air guitar. Ever see that one?

edit: What do you grade a Joshua Tree route at which took 20 years to see a second ascent even though it is in a prominent location and put up by a real player? Hmmm.

There is no grade, just do...

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jdzaharia

 
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by jdzaharia » Tue May 11, 2010 4:36 pm

Awesome climbing. Awesome video.

But, I don't get it. That's only the second ascent, right? So, how did all those bolts get in the rock? Kurt Smith carried a hammer drill and a bunch of anchors up on the first ascent? I wanna see the video of that.

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ShortTimer

 
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by ShortTimer » Tue May 11, 2010 6:55 pm

Well, either Kurt drilled ground up by standing on holds or hooking and standing in aiders or he rap bolted it. At this point only Kurt knows for sure. The top 2 or 3 bolts are from another route that was already there called The Terminator so he only had 4 bolts to put in I think.

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jdzaharia

 
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by jdzaharia » Wed May 12, 2010 4:31 pm

This brings more questions into my head.

If he top-roped it, or bolted on rappel, why bolt it at all? Didn't they refer to the route as trad?

And if you can climb another route, then top-rope, what's so special about the second ascent of "Dunce Cap?" Why not just FA another route? Couldn't a nearly-infinite number of routes be conceived here?

Is the purpose of the bolts to prove that somebody once climbed that particular route?

I hope I am not coming across as sarcastic or belittling. I am asking because I sincerely don't understand it.


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