Looks like I will have the first two weeks free in June, and wanted to head to Huarez for some climbing. I will likely be solo.

Whats the best plan of attack for setting up climbs in the Cordillera Blanca? Should I wait until I arrive to find a guide? Will I need to find partners?

Also, what are some climbs that might be in that early? I was thinking at least trying Chopi.?

Finally, if I get into Lima late at night can I catch an overnight bus to Huarez the same night, or will I have to wait until the next day?

Thanks in advance!

So:

* That early in the season, you should have no trouble finding guides on short notice. If you try to sort it out via internet before hand, you will most likely get ripped off, and can get much better prices if you ask when you get there (especially if you do speak some Spanish). If you want to play it safe, you can also take a look at Skyline Adventure, run by an American expat. Everyone who goes through them is raving about how great their services are, including many SPers.

* Finding partners can be a bit tricky. I tried last year and couldn't, but you might be luckier. There are several bulletin boards, try especially the casa de guias and california cafe. I wouldn't rely on being able to find partners, though.

* For Chopi, it will depend a lot on the snow conditions (esp. as this is an El Niño year). If there has been heavy snowfall and if nobody has made a track, it will be very hard. Just to give you an idea, I believe the first summits of the year were done around June 6th last year (I did mine on June 12th). You should take a look at Pisco and Yanapaccha too, both are lower and easier but could be good acclimatization peaks. For harder stuff, you have plenty of options: Artesonraju, Alpamayo, Quitaraju... Also lots of moderate peaks closer to Huaraz, but I don't know them very well.

* Take a look at Cruz del Sur (http://www.cruzdelsur.com.pe/inicio_2.php), they are the nicest bus company to get to Huaraz. Their bus terminal is about a half hour taxi ride from the airport, so do the math to see if you have a chance of catching their night bus. If you get in too late, you might have to spend some time in Lima, though. Flying could also be an option, but make sure to prearrange transport from Huaraz "airport" to the city.

I was lucky finding partners in Huaraz. Just posted notices in Cafe Andino, California Cafe & the casa de guias. You might be lucky or you won`t...
We climbed Tocclaraju on may 14th, but we had a lot of snow & had to break trail. Good moderate peaks that probably are climbable with a lot of snow could be Vallunaraju or Urus Este. Chopicalqui has some steep sections on the normal route. If there`s a lot of snow I would keep my fingers off it (slab avalanches and a lot of digging).
Get the book "Classic climbs in the Cordillera Blanca" by Brad Johnson. It`s the best guide book for the CB I found so far.
Have fun!

Awesome info guys, thanks much!

1) What is your experience level? That will help others suggest climbs. Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca is a great book. Once you allow for acclimatization and travel, in two weeks you be able to get two climbs. If you go for Chopi, Pisco or Yannapaccha make a nice pair. You might also try Urus or Ishinca paired with Tocllaraju or Ranrapalca, depending on your skill level.

2) You may have reasonable luck finding partners w/ SP's plans and partners. I found some last year and it seems there were at least 10-12 SP'ers down there in June.

3) I'm one of those who will recommend Skyline if you want a guide. Great service and great people.

4) Cruz del Sur is definitely the way to get to Huaraz. Flying is problematic with luggage. As June nears, Cruz del Sur will likely add another bus that runs to Huaraz during the day (leaving Lima around 10 AM). At least this is how it worked the last couple years. You can book online easily.

5) I have a lot of info for Huaraz (a great place) here: http://www.summitpost.org/logistical-ce ... -Peru.html

I tried pisco in late march with my guide and didn´t make it. The snow was real deep we made it to the col between the huandoys and pisco way short of the summit but it was still the best climb i´ve ever done. great views of huandoys and from the col Caraz I, II and Artesonraju.

I recomend Linea for a good bus line. Leather seats. meals.

Vallunaraju is a cool peak 5,700m real close to Huaraz. a taxi to the trail head takes 2 hours just because the road is bad. There´s a refuge there you can sleep in too. You might need your guide to make reservations.