Mt. Washington & Katahdin in summer, trekking poles?

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Eastern US. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Eastern US Climbing Partners section.
User Avatar
Chinigo

 
Posts: 28
Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2008 3:30 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

by Chinigo » Tue Jul 06, 2010 6:40 am

Chocodove, be sure to listen to John Duffield re: the bug spray. The mosquitos were evil, but fortunately the blackflies were not out yet. I don't recall seeing any yellowjackets.

I think you will have enough water. I took about 3 liters - and that was stupid of me - I should have known I would need more than that. If it had been cool there would have been no problem - but it was warm, somewhat humid, and calm. I only needed my jacket on some exposed parts of the Knife Edge where the wind was blowing.

It took me more than 12 hours - they say to expect 10. You're younger with good knees (I hope), so I'm sure you'll be about average, at least. (I would have made it in 10 if I had gone down the Hunt Trail to traverse the mountain.)

I think the Helon Taylor may be harder than the Huntington Ravine on Washington. It's not as steep, but the constant boulder hopping and uneven footing are difficult. They're both tough trails - I would have to try them both again to decide for sure.

The downclimb from Pamola into the notch is scary - some other (old) guys who were there declined to proceed. Since I'm crazy, I went for it. I can't rate climbs for certain, maybe it's a class 4, maybe not. Then, you have to climb Chimney Peak - same difficulty - and do the whole Knife Edge, starting by traversing the Sawteeth. The initial down and up climb is the hardest part. If you have decent upper body strength you should be fine - there are plenty of hand and footholds.

FYI - as I write this I am in Rapid City, SD - and I plan to do Harney Peak on Weds for my 25th state highpoint. After Katahdin, Harney will be easy. It's family vacation week: I, my wife, and my kids did IA's highpoint on Saturday - that was a real easy one.

User Avatar
chocodove

 
Posts: 71
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2009 3:54 pm
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

by chocodove » Tue Jul 06, 2010 10:04 pm

[quote="Chinigo"]

The downclimb from Pamola into the notch is scary - some other (old) guys who were there declined to proceed. Since I'm crazy, I went for it. I can't rate climbs for certain, maybe it's a class 4, maybe not. Then, you have to climb Chimney Peak - same difficulty - and do the whole Knife Edge, starting by traversing the Sawteeth. The initial down and up climb is the hardest part. If you have decent upper body strength you should be fine - there are plenty of hand and footholds.

quote]

Were you solo? My girlfriend is a little vertically challenged and from what I am reading I may be able to give her a hand in the spots she'll need it (I'm almost a foot taller). Would you also say this was the most difficult part of the route?

And congrats on nearing half the highpoints!

User Avatar
rasgoat

 
Posts: 789
Joined: Thu Jul 13, 2006 12:55 am
Thanked: 7 times in 6 posts

by rasgoat » Wed Jul 07, 2010 3:12 am

The Pamola notch is by far the toughest section. I would call it class three +. The rest of the knife edge is very easy. What about the huntington did she not like?

User Avatar
chocodove

 
Posts: 71
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2009 3:54 pm
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

by chocodove » Wed Jul 07, 2010 4:04 am

rasgoat wrote: What about the huntington did she not like?


Mainly a few of the ledges towards the top of the headwall. The notch is really the only place we would encounter something similar if we were to take Helon Taylor, traverse the Knife Edge, and then down the Saddle, correct?

User Avatar
Chinigo

 
Posts: 28
Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2008 3:30 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

by Chinigo » Wed Jul 07, 2010 4:14 am

Yes, I was solo by this point. I was climbing with a friend, but he decided he had had enough fun getting to the top of Pamola - so he went back down. I went on to Baxter Peak.

I have heard that smaller people have an advantage in climbing - I suppose it might be a strength to weight ratio issue that more than makes up for having a little less reach. (Someone correct me if I am wrong.)

The real key in any climb, I think, is safety. Also, I would not want to take out someone else below me if I were to fall. So, with that in mind, I don't think you can help your girlfriend with the downclimb except by going first, getting out of the way, and coaching her as you watch. There is no side-by-side route. (If rasgoat says it's a hard class 3 or 3+, then I agree with him.) And, there's no doubt it's the hardest part of the route.

If the summit is your real goal and she is really uncertain about the notch, then take the Hunt Trail to Baxter. If you feel strong, you can go on to hike the Knife Edge from there and then return.

Finally, thanks. I've been working on the HP's for a while now.

User Avatar
James_W

 
Posts: 1473
Joined: Sat May 14, 2005 2:47 pm
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

by James_W » Wed Jul 07, 2010 6:04 am

rasgoat wrote: What about the huntington did she not like?


Huntington would be rated at an easy class 3, only a few sections (I find the slabs at the start of the fan the most difficult). Hey Rasgoat enjoy the Washington trip (I am 7 hours from where you are going)

User Avatar
Bark Eater

 
Posts: 484
Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 10:04 pm
Thanked: 109 times in 89 posts

by Bark Eater » Wed Jul 07, 2010 12:28 pm

I don't think the Knife Edge is any harder than a class 3. I took some folks with absolutely no climbing experience across it and they did just fine. There is certainly some scrambling in and out of the notch but only limited exposure. That said, I agree with the recommendation that you do Baxter Peak first. That way, if it becomes an issue, you can always turn around and will have still bagged Katahdin! Have fun!

User Avatar
chocodove

 
Posts: 71
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2009 3:54 pm
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

by chocodove » Wed Jul 07, 2010 2:09 pm

This is all really fantastic information, thank you to all.

User Avatar
rasgoat

 
Posts: 789
Joined: Thu Jul 13, 2006 12:55 am
Thanked: 7 times in 6 posts

by rasgoat » Thu Jul 08, 2010 12:24 am

James_W wrote:Hey Rasgoat enjoy the Washington trip (I am 7 hours from where you are going)


Thank you James, I sure would love to get up to your neck o the woods one of these days!

Hey ChocoDave, see if you and your woman can get out to Breakneck a few times before the trip, just go up it and back down and up it again and again. Perhaps teaching her some technique along with practice will help her greatly.

Try to focus on the three points of contact, you know, having at least three limbs on holds at all times while moving the fourth. Any trail on Katahdin is achievable by this method and maybe you guys could get on that Cathederal (which is easier than the Pamola notch) and do the knife edge too, but of course she will have to want to do it.

Scrambling skills are a great asset, and if you go to Breakneck, you don't always have to pick the easiest line!

Up Helon Taylor and down Saddle is certainly an option although a long one. And yes, the notch is the only spot of this type on that loop. The saddle descent is a scree/sand slide-down type scene but not exposed.

User Avatar
chocodove

 
Posts: 71
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2009 3:54 pm
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

by chocodove » Thu Jul 08, 2010 1:25 am

rasgoat wrote:
Thank you James, I sure would love to get up to your neck o the woods one of these days!

Hey ChocoDave, see if you and your woman can get out to Breakneck a few times before the trip, just go up it and back down and up it again and again. Perhaps teaching her some technique along with practice will help her greatly.

Try to focus on the three points of contact, you know, having at least three limbs on holds at all times while moving the fourth. Any trail on Katahdin is achievable by this method and maybe you guys could get on that Cathederal (which is easier than the Pamola notch) and do the knife edge too, but of course she will have to want to do it.

Scrambling skills are a great asset, and if you go to Breakneck, you don't always have to pick the easiest line!

Up Helon Taylor and down Saddle is certainly an option although a long one. And yes, the notch is the only spot of this type on that loop. The saddle descent is a scree/sand slide-down type scene but not exposed.


We have two weekends until the trip, and if this infernal heatwave (103 in NJ yesterday!) ever ends we certainly will get out there. She's actually pretty good. Now that we have that behind us I think future trips will be more comfortable.

We're pretty much set on up Helon, over the Knife Edge, and down saddle at this point. I know Saddle is longer but it looks like much easier terrain for the last 3 miles or so. T

User Avatar
rasgoat

 
Posts: 789
Joined: Thu Jul 13, 2006 12:55 am
Thanked: 7 times in 6 posts

by rasgoat » Thu Jul 08, 2010 1:34 am

Cool man! enjoy it, Katahdin is one of a kind.

User Avatar
AlexeyD

 
Posts: 2081
Joined: Thu Jun 06, 2002 11:13 am
Thanked: 60 times in 48 posts

by AlexeyD » Thu Jul 08, 2010 2:53 pm

Hmm, I was thinking up the Cathedral Trail, over the Knife Edge and down the Helon Taylor would make for a fantastic loop - has anyone done it?

User Avatar
John Duffield

 
Posts: 2461
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 12:48 pm
Thanked: 2516 times in 1399 posts

by John Duffield » Thu Jul 08, 2010 3:41 pm

Done the reverse. The other two times, were Helon Up Saddle down.

The one I would like to do, is straight out of the Abol campground. Did part of this one evening to above the treeline. Since I haven't done it all, I don't know what was wrong with doing the Mountain that way. Instead of this business with the Parking at Roaring Brook, wake up in your tent whenever and go do the mountain. Were I to do it in the time-compressed manner the highpointers often do, that would be the one I would look at. I can say, there's a lot of wood down on the trail below the treeline.

Since it's so far away, we like to make a little more of a trip out it. A day hiking around Baxter and go Moose watching.

Last time, we did it with three 15 yo boys, one of whom had to be talked across the knife edge. But they did it and they were the ones that wanted to do Cathedral down. "Shorter".

User Avatar
nartreb

 
Posts: 2232
Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2004 10:45 pm
Thanked: 184 times in 155 posts

by nartreb » Thu Jul 08, 2010 4:35 pm

Done it a few times, a different way each time. Up Cathedral and down HT or Dudley looks like a fantastic day - it's in the plan for next time. First time was camped at Abol, up Abol down Hunt. Abol was a steep slog, Hunt had fantastic views and a nice mix of scrambling and walking. If you camp at Abol or Katahdin Stream, I recommend going up Hunt, over the knife edge, and then hitching back to camp. It's an almost-flat plateau from Hunt Spur to Baxter Peak, nothing to worry about above treeline other than the steepness you can see from below (until you get to the Knife Edge, which isn't hard but can be intimidating).

Definitely spend a few days on the other peaks (Doubletop, Brothers, Travelers,... ).

User Avatar
Hotoven

 
Posts: 1864
Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2009 8:06 pm
Thanked: 118 times in 89 posts

by Hotoven » Thu Jul 08, 2010 7:19 pm

I would take poles, but I would only use them on my way down. They almost double my decent speed, and my knees don't hurt as bad at the end.

PreviousNext

Return to Eastern US (New England, Mid-Atlantic, Southeast)

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

cron