Re:Crampons for Mt. Ritter

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
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paulblechert

 
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Re:Crampons for Mt. Ritter

by paulblechert » Mon Aug 09, 2010 4:34 am

My freind and I will be summiting Mt Ritter from the south side, the first week of September. We will be using the the class 2 routes. My question is.....will we need cramons?

Please ......any info would be apreciated.....Thanks,Paul

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mrchad9

 
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by mrchad9 » Mon Aug 09, 2010 10:11 am

I did it Labor Day weekend 2007. We reached the glacier not too long after sunrise, as a result, it was too icy to walk very far on. I tried- the rest went around, so we had to take the first, very loose chute on the right. We came down the chute at the top of the glacier, which is easier and not so loose, and were able to walk down as it had warmed up a bit.

So I didn't take them then, and glad I didn't, but anticipate you might be forced to take the first chute up if you are there early.

But when I climbed it in 1936 it was a different story...

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Bascuela

 
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by Bascuela » Mon Aug 09, 2010 9:31 pm

I’m going to make a day run on it this Friday. I was going to bring them. I figure why not?
PS, partner bailed… any and all are welcomed. SE glacier route.

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paulblechert

 
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by paulblechert » Mon Aug 09, 2010 9:48 pm

Bascuela wrote:I’m going to make a day run on it this Friday. I was going to bring them. I figure why not?
PS, partner bailed… any and all are welcomed. SE glacier route.


Good luck with your climb! If you can, please let me know about the conditions when you get back.

Thanks, Paul

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paulblechert

 
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by paulblechert » Mon Aug 09, 2010 9:58 pm

1000Pks: Thanks for the info.....what a Great site you have. I enjoyed reading about some of your hikes and summits. Also, enjoyed the photos.

mrchad9: I'll certainlly take your advice.....Thanks

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Kapelmuur

 
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by Kapelmuur » Tue Aug 10, 2010 3:34 am

Good luck Paul!

A second to the request for a report on what you find. I'll be up in the AA in a couple weeks and if conditions are miraculously optimal, would like to have a go at either Ritter or Banner.

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jdmorris

 
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crampoff

by jdmorris » Tue Aug 10, 2010 7:21 am

I dayhiked Ritter and Banner today and the snow was soft by 9AM and has sun cups 1-2 feet deep. The North Glacier and the snow on the ascent to the Ritter Banner saddle was moderately okay but the SE glacier snow and snowfields were pretty miserable for my descent (suncup size). I saw that people had boot kicked up soft snow in lots of places without too much trouble and I certainly didn't want crampons for the descent. I'd leave the decision up to you - it never hurts to have em!

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dskoon

 
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Re: crampoff

by dskoon » Tue Aug 10, 2010 3:41 pm

jdmorris wrote:I dayhiked Ritter and Banner today and the snow was soft by 9AM and has sun cups 1-2 feet deep. The North Glacier and the snow on the ascent to the Ritter Banner saddle was moderately okay but the SE glacier snow and snowfields were pretty miserable for my descent (suncup size). I saw that people had boot kicked up soft snow in lots of places without too much trouble and I certainly didn't want crampons for the descent. I'd leave the decision up to you - it never hurts to have em!


Did you, or was it possible to glissade at all coming down the SE side? And I take it you went up that class 3 rock chute, whatever its called, the "Classic route," or the "Right Hand chute?"
Hoping to take my son up there in a couple of weeks.

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jdmorris

 
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Re: crampoff

by jdmorris » Fri Aug 13, 2010 5:51 am

dskoon wrote:Did you, or was it possible to glissade at all coming down the SE side? And I take it you went up that class 3 rock chute, whatever its called, the "Classic route," or the "Right Hand chute?"
Hoping to take my son up there in a couple of weeks.


I did the right hand chute and climbed the third class rock in the ramp to the NE ridge (which is exceptionally clean, sturdy rock compared to the rest of the route). I would advise you to wear helmets if you're not solo. I had hoped to glissade and the snow was soft but the sun cups were enormous. Some of the more runnel-like cups might be slideable.

JD

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dskoon

 
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Re: crampoff

by dskoon » Fri Aug 13, 2010 6:50 am

jdmorris wrote:
dskoon wrote:Did you, or was it possible to glissade at all coming down the SE side? And I take it you went up that class 3 rock chute, whatever its called, the "Classic route," or the "Right Hand chute?"
Hoping to take my son up there in a couple of weeks.


I did the right hand chute and climbed the third class rock in the ramp to the NE ridge (which is exceptionally clean, sturdy rock compared to the rest of the route). I would advise you to wear helmets if you're not solo. I had hoped to glissade and the snow was soft but the sun cups were enormous. Some of the more runnel-like cups might be slideable.

JD


Thanks for that info.
Dayhike, huh? Long day, but no doubt a good one.
Helmets, eh? Yeah, I've been thinking about it. When I climbed Ritter, we didn't have helmets, but I spose it's the way to go if people are above, etc.
I do remember those suncups, matter of fact, I'd never seen anything like that before. Suncups, yes, but never as big and deep as those. They might in fact be the deepest suncups in all the Sierra. Still, we found a place to glissade both standing and sitting, and had a good time down.

Ok, I'm further inspired.


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