A few of us are making it out West this month with Rainier in mind. Just wondering how the warm summer treats those glaciers this time of year on Rainier. Will screws or pickets be the likely anchor of choice on the glacier? Most seem to recommend screws from what Ive come across but some of those pictures posted on the trail make the terrain seem quite loose.

Also, has anyone done the DC recently? If so, would be interested in hearing about how the trail conditions were.

Freezing Levels have been pretty high lately, between 11,500 ft and even over 14,000 ft for many days. It must be pretty slushy up there with excellent conditions closer to the top.

Check route condition info here: http://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/
Weather: http://www.atmos.washington.edu/data/ra ... eport.html

I hiked up to Camp Muir this past Monday the 2nd. and the ranger I talked to and a couple of climbers coming down said the DC was in good shape with no problems yet. Pro isn't usually needed for this route except for a crevasse rescue so carry pickets and a screw in case.

I went up the DC last week. Route was in FANTASTIC shape and I carried pro, but didn't use it.

Great links all. Great to hear conditions are nice as well.

Climbed the DC on the 30/31 and again in a single push yesterday. Route is in great shape, a couple of small crevasses to step over and a ladder to walk across (ladder was moved/route slightly changed in the 4 days between my 2 ascents). I highly recommend camping at Ingraham flats instead of Muir. Have fun!

Actually planning on doing both unless we decide to summit the second day. We are East coasters so looking to take our time and spend a night at Miur initially and then the Flats the night after befor a an early summit. Figured this would give some flexibility too if weather decides to take a day away. Thanks for the trail info. Hoping things stay pretty much the same for the next few weeks.

JonnyAces7 wrote:Actually planning on doing both unless we decide to summit the second day. We are East coasters so looking to take our time and spend a night at Miur initially and then the Flats the night after befor a an early summit. Figured this would give some flexibility too if weather decides to take a day away. Thanks for the trail info. Hoping things stay pretty much the same for the next few weeks.

Do as you please, but that seems like a lot of hassle to move your camp less than an hour away from the first camp. I think you'd be better off spending two nights in the same camp if that is your preference. With a day of rest in between, the extra push the first day or summit day shouldn't be that big of a deal.

TheBootfitter wrote:

JonnyAces7 wrote:Actually planning on doing both unless we decide to summit the second day. We are East coasters so looking to take our time and spend a night at Miur initially and then the Flats the night after befor a an early summit. Figured this would give some flexibility too if weather decides to take a day away. Thanks for the trail info. Hoping things stay pretty much the same for the next few weeks.

Do as you please, but that seems like a lot of hassle to move your camp less than an hour away from the first camp. I think you'd be better off spending two nights in the same camp if that is your preference. With a day of rest in between, the extra push the first day or summit day shouldn't be that big of a deal.

It really isn't much of a hassle. You have all day to relax so spending an hour or so lazily packing up camp and moving up to Ingraham isn't bad at all and keeps your muscles from tightening up too much. I've done it both ways and really preferred the Muir/Ingraham way (if you're doing three days).