Hamik, when the snow allows, it is better to go via the right side of the first gully. Unfortunately, in early season, the snow is either unconsolidated and deep, or there is not enough of it, which forces one into the left gully and higher up, into much more difficult terrain. One should be able to completely avoid the two raps you show above the first gully by going right at THE BASE of the first gully. It is totally dependent on snow cover. Mid January and later is the best time to go up this, especially in a good snow year. When the gullies are bare of snow or there's not enough of it, or the snow is deep and unconsolidated, the route is at least a grade (or more) harder. The ice pitch occurs at the top of the Notch, about 70 degrees, protected with Stoppers and Hexes. It is seasonal, but I found it there twice in Mid January. The usual thing is one day to the Notch, next day to the top of the face and down. Take one more day to go to the summit.

Fantastic information, Alois, thanks. Yes, I'd only done this in summer, when we had to take that dihedral and rappel into the beginning of the second gully. It sounds like the route will be much more enjoyable come January.

Edit: updated photo diagram to reflect later season route. Is this correct? (On first page of thread)

Yes Hamik, your red line is correct, although it could start just a bit lower, where the left gully line makes the bend. It occured to me that you guys might have gone there is the summer, the route (in Summer) follows the slabs on the left side. There is even a rap station up there (off a tree) set up by Miguel Carmona and Joe Lemay some years back that allowed them a faster descent from the top of the South Face (via the Notch of Winter Route). You want to avoid this left side if at all possible, but that depends on the amount of snow filling the gullies. Mid January to early March is the time. Have fun.