http://www.nationalparkstraveler.com/20 ... erness7694
The, uh, nut of of the issue is
Director's Order 41, Wilderness Stewardship wrote:"Clean climbing" techniques should be the norm in wilderness. This involves the use of temporary equipment and anchors that can be placed and removed without altering the environment (e.g. slings, cams, nuts, chocks, and stoppers).
Existing fixed anchors would remain, and it would be possible to get a permit for a new one.