Denali tips

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Canada and Alaska. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Canada and Alaska Climbing Partners forum.
User Avatar
ScottyP

 
Posts: 632
Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2008 10:43 pm
Thanked: 35 times in 27 posts

Re: Denali tips

by ScottyP » Tue Apr 05, 2011 2:40 am

Sanders, please re-read Alasdairs comment. I feel pretty comfortable in the alpine enviroment but felt a guide service on Denali made sense to me.

User Avatar
radson

 
Posts: 1968
Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:34 pm
Thanked: 122 times in 86 posts

Re: Denali tips

by radson » Tue Apr 05, 2011 4:24 am

sanders wrote:Folks, is there anybody who is searching for a team to traverse the crevasses on McKinley? Is there any special forum for that?


sanders, might be time to give the good folks at summitpost an idea of your prior experience and aims for McKinley for some honest feedback.

no avatar
sanders

 
Posts: 32
Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 7:54 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Denali tips

by sanders » Tue Apr 05, 2011 5:06 am

ExcitableBoy wrote:sanders,

Are looking to join a team to climb Denali (Mt McKinley)? What do you mean by traverse teh crevasses?


Actually, yes. At least, team up for the difficult pitches with crevasses...

no avatar
sanders

 
Posts: 32
Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 7:54 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Denali tips

by sanders » Tue Apr 05, 2011 5:17 am

radson wrote:
sanders wrote:Folks, is there anybody who is searching for a team to traverse the crevasses on McKinley? Is there any special forum for that?


sanders, might be time to give the good folks at summitpost an idea of your prior experience and aims for McKinley for some honest feedback.


Sure, prior experience - several glacier peaks at above 19,000 feet and many other minor peaks. Step-by-step description of one of my climbs here - http://bit.ly/hBmiLu - the most northern 23,000 feet summit (you need to wait 40 seconds before you can start downloading)

I feel I have a compelling story for McKinley. Why this mountain? - Need some more experience with low temperatures and unstable weather. It's my preparation for the Himalayan and Karakoram peaks above 26,000 feet... Plus, this time I can take 3 weeks off - will probably never happen again in the next couple of years...

User Avatar
radson

 
Posts: 1968
Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:34 pm
Thanked: 122 times in 86 posts

Re: Denali tips

by radson » Wed Apr 06, 2011 5:41 pm

I cant download the file. Is that a Khan Tengri trip report?

no avatar
sanders

 
Posts: 32
Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 7:54 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Denali tips

by sanders » Thu Apr 07, 2011 11:56 pm

radson wrote:I cant download the file. Is that a Khan Tengri trip report?


That's right. You need to push the banner-type button "Download" when it appears after 40 seconds...

no avatar
sanders

 
Posts: 32
Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 7:54 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Denali tips

by sanders » Sat Apr 09, 2011 6:36 am

So, folks, do you have any advice on finding the team for the climb? Shall I try to do it at the base camp or better on some specialized forums? How easy would it be to team up on spot? I can't find any good forum that would gather people for climbing Denali...

User Avatar
Brad Marshall

 
Posts: 1948
Joined: Tue Feb 28, 2006 6:54 pm
Thanked: 17 times in 15 posts

Re: Denali tips

by Brad Marshall » Sat Apr 09, 2011 2:53 pm

I would image it would be quite difficult to hook up with another team this late in the planning unless you know someone.

User Avatar
ExcitableBoy

 
Posts: 3622
Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2005 9:33 am
Thanked: 649 times in 485 posts

Re: Denali tips

by ExcitableBoy » Sat Apr 09, 2011 3:16 pm

sanders wrote:So, folks, do you have any advice on finding the team for the climb? Shall I try to do it at the base camp or better on some specialized forums? How easy would it be to team up on spot? I can't find any good forum that would gather people for climbing Denali...

You will most likely not be able to fly onto the KIA without a permit. To get a permit you need to apply for it 60 days before your trip begins. Since you don't have a team lined up you will need a special soloist permit. Once at KIA, there will be lots of people. Maybe you could find a team to tie in with, but it seems a long shot.

no avatar
sanders

 
Posts: 32
Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 7:54 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Denali tips

by sanders » Sun Apr 10, 2011 4:15 am

ExcitableBoy wrote:
sanders wrote:So, folks, do you have any advice on finding the team for the climb? Shall I try to do it at the base camp or better on some specialized forums? How easy would it be to team up on spot? I can't find any good forum that would gather people for climbing Denali...

You will most likely not be able to fly onto the KIA without a permit. To get a permit you need to apply for it 60 days before your trip begins. Since you don't have a team lined up you will need a special soloist permit. Once at KIA, there will be lots of people. Maybe you could find a team to tie in with, but it seems a long shot.


I see. I've got a solo permit.

no avatar
doc1911

 
Posts: 14
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2006 8:04 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Denali tips

by doc1911 » Sat Apr 23, 2011 12:38 am

Any suggestions on 2 and 3 man tents. we had some ordered form Nemo but they are way backed up and the trip is rapidly approaching. I have used the EV 25 and EV 24 and like the tent but it is bit heavy. Looking for something lighter weight.

User Avatar
ScottyP

 
Posts: 632
Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2008 10:43 pm
Thanked: 35 times in 27 posts

Re: Denali tips

by ScottyP » Sat Apr 23, 2011 2:36 am

I brought three batteries, slept with them and really protected them. In the end, I only used 1.5 ba time.tteries for over 1000 pics and 10 minutes of video. Keep them warm BEFORE using them and they will last a long

no avatar
sanders

 
Posts: 32
Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 7:54 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Denali tips

by sanders » Tue Apr 26, 2011 10:43 pm

Folks, I need a -30F sleeping bag and a 3-person expedition tent for Denali. Would appreciate if you could recommend me any climbing equipment rental services in Anchorage. I called REI and Alaska Mountaineering & Hiking - they don't rent these items.

User Avatar
wfinley

 
Posts: 18
Joined: Wed Jun 17, 2009 12:59 am
Thanked: 6 times in 5 posts

Re: Denali tips

by wfinley » Wed Apr 27, 2011 12:35 am

sanders wrote:Folks, I need a -30F sleeping bag and a 3-person expedition tent for Denali. Would appreciate if you could recommend me any climbing equipment rental services in Anchorage. I called REI and Alaska Mountaineering & Hiking - they don't rent these items.

You can double check with AMS but I seriously doubt anyone is going to rent you a tent and bag for Denali.

Your best bet is to buy used. Here's a bag for sale.

no avatar
doc1911

 
Posts: 14
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2006 8:04 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Denali tips

by doc1911 » Wed May 25, 2011 3:04 am

sanders wrote:Folks, I need a -30F sleeping bag and a 3-person expedition tent for Denali. Would appreciate if you could recommend me any climbing equipment rental services in Anchorage. I called REI and Alaska Mountaineering & Hiking - they don't rent these items.



I just got back a week ago. I had a -20F bag, VBL and liner and never slept in more than layer 1 until 17K Camp. This time of year you really don't need a -30F bag. Save some space and weight and go with a 0F or -10F bag and use a VBL and maybe a thermal liner. If you get cold (which I doubt) just throw on extra clothes that you already have.

AMS might have a tent. Get a good one. It is worth it.

PreviousNext

Return to Canada and Alaska

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests