Getting a lot of inquires, so will post here and refer folks to this thread. Bugaboo's, as is consistent with the rest of western Canada has excess precip for this time of year in terms of snow. This makes traveling easier, particularly descending from Applebee to Hut or ascending or descending the Bug-Snowpatch col (total walk up). This makes the Snowpatch-Pigeon col raps a very wet experience. We have also had some recent close ice fall near these raps. Crack climbing on Crescent completely dry, but interesting enough we saw no sign of tracks in the deep snow leading up to the popular routes, Paddle Flake and McTech Arete (5.10's). Cannot imagine since the road has been open that no one else has climbed these, but rather it suggests continued significant snow fall filling in the previous post holes. It snowed on us during the afternoon hours climbing these routes. The classic Sunshine Cracks (5.11, north face of Snowpatch), what we went in to climb, is totally out of condition still. Too much drainage from snow melt from that end of the summit. Kain is mostly dry up Bugaboo and NE ridge of Bugaboo looked good enough to me but I am sure the upper pitches provide a wet experience. Word of caution. Custodian is super nice gentleman. But don't let him scare you off with the weather, quiz him more about his chalkboard, i.e. barometric pressure rising or dropping. Sort of a weather nazi, assume that is because he gets tired of having to explain to so many tourists that the weather in the Bugs is tentative at best. The day we came out, July 16th, we were climbing at Back of Lake Louise and ran into Cody who noticed the exact same thing. Again, super guy, just don't hike in and leave because he hates on the weather. Ask specific questions about satellite imagery and barometric pressure before making that decision. Still camping on snow at Applebee, but bridge in at creek below hut now and hut water and electricity running.
Climbed Sisphysus Summits yesterday for the third time. The first time I experienced significant rock fall from above on this particular route, experienced much worse on other Ha Ling north face routes, but Sisphysus follows a much dryer and safer line. Possible trundling, but would rather assume that the super wet conditions were the likly culprit. The route itself is completely dry, so a bit surprised with the fall. Brandon climbed Alberta Jam (5.11b-c/North Ghost) yesterday, said it is possibly the best crack in Alberta if not all of Canada. We will be on it in the morning and either confirm or deny. He did not have to do much arm twisting. Have been close to it in the winter climbing ice, so interested to see if it and its brethern cracks match up to their supposed reputaion. Will report back on road into North Ghost as well. For the most part, alpine is drying out fast this week. Skyladder was in super shape late into the season, as late as last week. Still prob in good snow condition vs ice.
Wildlife seems more active than normal at lower elevations, bear, goats, etc. Unfortunatly that also includes mosquitos. About as bad as I can remember. All in all gods country though. Enjoy.