Injury from fall while gaston-ing

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EverydayExplorer

 
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Injury from fall while gaston-ing

by EverydayExplorer » Fri Jun 17, 2011 11:48 pm

About two years ago I was climbing a water runnel in NC (Groover at Laurel Knob if anyone cares). Things got a little precarious when the crystals my feet where placed started to crumble. I was using a gaston-ish technique to get up the runnel. If you can visualize opening elevator doors 18" wide that is what I was doing with my hands. The end result was that I took a fall and injured a deep muscle behind my left shoulder blade. My best guess of which muscle is the rhomboid or trap. That was two years and I am getting kind of tired of "sucking it up". Has anybody else had an injury like this and what did you do to recover? Any ideas before I drop way too much money to see a specialist? Up until this point my DIY physical therapy has been regular heating pads and rolling on a large foam noodle to massage that area. If it helps the muscle also hurts after wearing a backpack, it feels like a character-building, put hair on your chest, burning muscle cramp.

*Edit* If anyone knows of a good sports therapist in the Seattle area I'd be much obliged if you'd share.

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rockymtnclimber

 
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Re: Injury from fall while gaston-ing

by rockymtnclimber » Sat Jun 18, 2011 7:53 am

It's only "way too much money" if it doesn't work. I've got no words of advice (because my similar sounding problems were all lower body), but I'll wish you good luck. I've had enough of the nagging injuries to not wish them on anyone.

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Marcsoltan

 
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Re: Injury from fall while gaston-ing

by Marcsoltan » Sat Jun 18, 2011 5:04 pm

I hate water runnels and stay away from them at any cost. Have had a thousand injuries through the years, and the only suggestion I can make is something that you already know, namely, REST, REST, REST.
By the way, I really like the way you explained what a gaston is. Gaston Rebufat can rest easy in heaven now.

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EverydayExplorer

 
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Re: Injury from fall while gaston-ing

by EverydayExplorer » Sun Jun 19, 2011 1:03 am

Thanks Marcsoltan and rockymtclimber.

The gaston or a least the name for the gaston technique is not well known. It is a good technique for awkward climbs and just to have in your toolbox so to speak. I have seen people try to pinch the corners of wide cracks because they haven't seen the gaston move. That said it is a tricky technique to get the hang of because it uses certain back muscles in ways that you can't really train for.

Any recovery help is much appreciated. I'm not expecting a miracle cure and it seems like a long shot that this unfortunate injury would happen to someone else but I thought I would put it out there. If anyone knows a good Seattle based sports therapist I would be much obliged if you'd share.

Climb safe
-Jon

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Carbo

 
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Re: Injury from fall while gaston-ing

by Carbo » Wed Jul 20, 2011 9:33 pm

I have a trap injury that I am getting over. In the beginning I could barely climb.
I doubt it is the same as your injury, however it was inflammed and has taken me months to get over.
I got PT via my healthcare provider. First did low strength exercises and stretches. Slowly increase the load.
I would recommend getting PT or sports therapist to work on it and design a plan for exercises.

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fatdad

 
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Re: Injury from fall while gaston-ing

by fatdad » Wed Jul 20, 2011 10:45 pm

EverydayExplorer wrote:The gaston or a least the name for the gaston technique is not well known.

Actually it is a pretty well known expression and technique, at least here in So Cal. For example, a well know Bachar route at Josh, Baby Apes, has some mandatory gastoning; either that or I'm dating myself.

I'd seek some PT and see what they can do. You've probably had some atrophy and overdevelopment of surrounding areas compensating for the injury. If so, a good PT should be able find and correct the problem.

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PamelaJamela

 
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Re: Injury from fall while gaston-ing

by PamelaJamela » Thu Oct 20, 2011 7:42 pm

Sorry for the somewhat late response, but I wanted to thank ya'll for the advice. I had a bit of a bad injury myself (fell down a flight of stairs while skateboarding. Dumb, I know.) but I have problems with my upper back now.

While I have insurance, I'm still extremely picky about who I go to. If I'm going to see any number of specialists, I want my "time investment" to be worth it. If they can help me, then great!

Now, you mention physical/sports therapists as being the best option. What about other specialists like neurologists or chiropractors? Never know until ya try, right? Anyway, thanks a bunch! :)
Pamela


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