Hi folks,i used to sport climb and boulder alot and used to get this horrible dull ache in my left elbow that would run up into my shoulder. i went into mountaineering alot more the last 4 yrs but now am back bouldering up to font 7a and the problem seems to be coming back.
The odd thing about the pain is after a session if i take a deep breath the dull ache shoots up my arm(elbow to shoulder) anyone know what this is? And how best to avoid/treat it in future?
Ps i`ve been working out with weights 3 days a week and bouldering 3.
Thanks for any help. J.C

Talk to a physical therapist on this one. You'll get 15 answers on the web and unless its from a medical professional it will probably be bad advise.

CClaude wrote:Talk to a physical therapist on this one. You'll get 15 answers on the web and unless its from a medical professional it will probably be bad advise.

I agree, also, everyone's body is a little different. When I climb hard (especially boulder) I get tendinitis in my right elbow. The only thing that ever helps me is to take a week off. I'm sure there's a better way to deal with it though.

Is the pain on the inside of the elbow or the outside? If it's on the inside, it's likely medial epicondilytis (sp?), which can be real nasty. I had a bad case of that that took c. 5 yrs. to resolve. Really.

Stop bouldering, go get it checked out and let it heal. I was able to live with not climbing much during that time thru lots of mt. biking and easy peaks. However, when it happened I was young (early 30s), fit and would have loved to spent some of that time climbing hard stuff, not babying my elbows.

The "running up to the shoulder" part makes me worry a bit. A good sports injury doc (or PT) can diagnose problems based on the way movements cause pain.

Thanks for all the responses guys,much appreciated.
I`ve spoken to a physio and getting it looked at this eve
Also, had no problems with workouts since i posted,bouldering later today tho so we`l see.
On a non climbing holiday next week so hopefully that`l give things a chance to clear up.
Regards J.C.

I just started climbing at a gym a couple weeks ago. I'm 27 and I had never climbed before then at all. I already aggravated my elbows from the brutal work my inner forearms have been doing, while not working out the outer muscles. I wish I had looked into proper workouts before I started climbing but I'm hoping I caught it early enough that I can balance my arms out now. Moral of the story: take it slow and workout opposing muscles just as hard as inner forearms/biceps.

Morlow wrote:I just started climbing at a gym a couple weeks ago. I'm 27 and I had never climbed before then at all. I already aggravated my elbows from the brutal work my inner forearms have been doing, while not working out the outer muscles. I wish I had looked into proper workouts before I started climbing but I'm hoping I caught it early enough that I can balance my arms out now. Moral of the story: take it slow and workout opposing muscles just as hard as inner forearms/biceps.

Dynoflex/gyroscope balls are great to help it out

My suggestion to anyone with tendonitis/tendonosis issues is to go see someone that is qualified to perform ART. I had tendonosis in both elbows inner and outer, i had this problem for 4 years and it was very difficult to work thru,my hobby at the time was bodybuilding, once I started getting ART i got better fast! as a matter of fact i was able to increase the intensity of my workouts while i was receiving ART. The first 4-5 times i went it did hurt a fair amount and i would be bruised the next day but it was well worth it.

I have had the same problem. I've been climbing off and on for 7 years or so. Seems I always have to lay off the climbing for a bit once it flares up. Which sucks because it tends to happen when i'm climbing my hardest and making the most progress. Then it seems like i'm starting from scratch allover.(I don't climb hard anymore, i'm very much so a sub 5.10 climber now a days).

I have tried pretty much everything, taking a week off, taking 3 months off, taking 6 months off, gradual increase in climbing, and climbing through the pain attempting to "break through". While taking time off definitely helps, it doesn't prevent its return.

I just ordered arm aid off of armaid.com...wasn't too stoked to pay $100, but after a decent write-up in Climbing magazine this month i thought i'd give it a shot...i'll let you guys know if it helps or is just a paperweight...

Nate

if peeps would find a good ART practitioner they would be better off,that way the adhesions would be removed but to each their own.