Denali May/June: DAS Parka vs. Expedition Down?

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OPHIRTODD

 
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by OPHIRTODD » Sun Mar 28, 2010 3:26 am

You'll be happy with them. Another thought is to go with a "puffy" instead of a heavy fleece. A hooded puffy is warmer, lighter and more compressible than a thick fleece layer and is much quicker to pull on (over your shell and base layers) than it is to add a fleece layer at breaks.

For May trips, you can probably get away without Gore-tex for your legs. You might find yourself in a spot where you need to pull your Compressor pants on, when you might have added Gore, but 99% of the time, you'll be fine without Gore. Save the weight for some hamburgers or something important.

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Gimghoul

 
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Re: Denali May/June: DAS Parka vs. Expedition Down?

by Gimghoul » Wed Nov 02, 2011 7:06 pm

So, was there ever a resolution to this question? I have the Das Parka, but I don't own a down parka. I might climb Denali in late May or June. Am I likely to be OK with the Das?

As a side question... Patagonia micro puff pants: Are they sufficient, or do I need to invest in higher loft pants?

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radson

 
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Re: Denali May/June: DAS Parka vs. Expedition Down?

by radson » Wed Nov 02, 2011 7:27 pm

I'm vey glad I took my 8000m jacket for my may trip . I did not use it on summit day but used it mainly for digging out tents during storms. I didn't see saving weight as a huge issue on Denali.

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Vitaliy M.

 
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Re: Denali May/June: DAS Parka vs. Expedition Down?

by Vitaliy M. » Wed Nov 02, 2011 7:57 pm

Gimghoul wrote:So, was there ever a resolution to this question? I have the Das Parka, but I don't own a down parka. I might climb Denali in late May or June. Am I likely to be OK with the Das?

As a side question... Patagonia micro puff pants: Are they sufficient, or do I need to invest in higher loft pants?


If you plan to stand around and have a 20 hour summit day plan on getting all the warmest stuff possible. If you are reasonably fast and can move (maintain your body warmth) than you should be ok with what you have. Good luck.

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Gimghoul, Shane Rathbun

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radson

 
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Re: Denali May/June: DAS Parka vs. Expedition Down?

by radson » Wed Nov 02, 2011 8:52 pm

Image
Christi's final steps to summit. by radson1, on Flickr

Christi, I believe appreciated her Marmot jacket :)

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Shane Rathbun

 
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Re: Denali May/June: DAS Parka vs. Expedition Down?

by Shane Rathbun » Wed Nov 02, 2011 10:42 pm

I used a DAS parka paired with a Patagonia Down Sweater. Actually, the only time I actually paired the two was around 20,000 feet near Pig Hill. The rest of the time I was just using one or the other.

I also brought the Patagonia micropuff pants but only used them at night in my sleeping bag after my sleeping bag zipper broke. Did not use on summit day. I also did not bring/use overboots (used La Sportiva Spantiks) and did not wear my down mitts once (used Black Diamond Guide Gloves).

Like Vitaliy said, if you are slow and have a 20 hour summit day you will want to be warmer. It's advantageous to move quickly.

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Gimghoul, Vitaliy M.

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Vitaliy M.

 
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Re: Denali May/June: DAS Parka vs. Expedition Down?

by Vitaliy M. » Thu Nov 03, 2011 4:06 am

I actually wanted to tell you to PM Shane. He was my partner and used Das Parka without any problems through the trip, as he said. Seems like a good warm jacket. In general your summit day will not be a really windy and crappy day. People usually go when the winds are about 25mph or less and it is mostly clear.
On the summit day I actually started without a down jacket or a hat (it was sunny), from 17K camp. I did get really cold after first 1000ft though and had to put on my down jacket and mittens. When your core temp drops perfusion in your extremities will get reduced. So keep your core temp up, keep hydrated, move, have adequate gear, and you will stay warm.

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Gimghoul

 
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Re: Denali May/June: DAS Parka vs. Expedition Down?

by Gimghoul » Thu Nov 03, 2011 12:45 pm

Sounds good. Thanks, guys. I tend not to move slowly, although this will be the tallest/coldest thing I've ever been on. I'm more of a rock climber than alpine - this will be the first summer in a few years that I don't go to Yosemite to do some walls.

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Re: Denali May/June: DAS Parka vs. Expedition Down?

by ibekker » Thu Nov 03, 2011 2:01 pm

Hi, I'm planning a May/June trip as well, would a Mountain Hardwear Sub Zero Parka work for Denali weather?

thanks
Igor

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