First Time to Lee Vining Canyon

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First Time to Lee Vining Canyon

by Fire4x4 » Sat Dec 24, 2011 12:41 am

I'm planning on heading up to Lee Vining after Christmas and had a few questions:
1. Do you need a 70M rope to TR? I am more then capable to lead WI3 but my partner has a bum shoulder and will be there just to belay and enjoy being outdoors. Will this become a problem?
2. How hard will it be to find bolts? I know it all depends on how much ice is there. I do have the Guide book, is it pretty accurate?
3. How easy/time consuming is the walk off descent from the climbs?
4. Anything else I should know that would be helpful to me and other climbers there?

Sorry for the noob questions but want I to be prepared...

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Steve Larson

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Re: First Time to Lee Vining Canyon

by Steve Larson » Sat Dec 24, 2011 3:32 am

I'll be up there at the same time with a few friends. A 60m rope will be enough to TR on the Chouinard Falls area, which has the most ice right now, though a 70m will make it a little easier, and open up the left hand side. Having two ropes would be the best. You would definitely need two ropes (preferably 70s) to TR the main wall.

I don't use the guidebook to find bolts, so I couldn't tell you how accurate it is. There is a good bolt anchor in the center of the Chouinard Falls area that shouldn't be too hard to find. I don't use the others, since I mostly climb on the main wall or Bard-Harrington (not in right now). There are also plenty of trees, though some means of extending the belay would help.

The walk off is easy and takes only a few minutes. Due to the limited amount of ice right now, you might find there are a bunch of people all trying to climb in the same area. Bring some patience. It works out pretty well if everybody adopts an attitude of cooperation. Being willing to share ropes can help.

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kevin trieu

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Re: First Time to Lee Vining Canyon

by kevin trieu » Sat Dec 24, 2011 12:24 pm

to avoid getting lost in the canyon, follow the Chief's wanes.

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