As of 8th December, the Birley Glacier (which you must cross on the standard route to Wright Col) is in an unstable condition. There is approximately 600mm /2ft of soft wet snow which has not adhered to the base layer. There are regular small avalanches, including one triggered by a climber attempting a self-arrest. Take care and try to get updates on conditions before attempting this route for the time being.

Yeah?

We crossed the Birley this exact time of year, 2 years ago and it was in top nick!! Lets just blame La Nina.

Dadndave, have you been back since your failed attempt? I'm keen to go back - its a nice mountain.

It sure is.

I went back last week. We abandoned our attempt after getting warnings from climbers ahead of us who had turned around. The first team complained of too-slow progress plugging through knee-deep soft, wet snow. The second team coming back had a near miss. One of them had slipped and his attempted self-arrest had resulted in him taking a fair slice of the surface layer down the hill with him. Luckily the whole thing stopped of its own accord before he went over the edge. (No doubt you remember the 100 metre cliff below the Birley!). That bloke was pretty badly shaken, I can tell you.

Anyway, putting the two reports together we concluded that there must be a deep unbonded layer sitting on top of the Birley and we decided against attempting to cross.

Back at Kea basin we saw a couple of avalanches coming off the East Face glacier - not the falling seracs from the toe that you would normally expect, but the surface layers sliding off, which convinced us we'd made the right decision. Later on, while walking out we saw avalanches on the Birley too.

Oh well, maybe third time lucky.............

DnD,

I take it you are probably going to do a third attempt? I have taken a hiatus from NZ trips due to moves and $ issues but may be in a position to do so again this N.American winter.

I also have unfinished business with Earnslaw. Looks like today would have been a nice day for an attempt.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=401922453165516&set=a.113361425354955.13346.113357552022009&type=1&theater

No unfinished business but am always keen to climb a great mountain. If any of you Oz regulars are keen and planning a climb let us know. Am very keen (however my wife and first child on the way may have a different view - will deal with them when it comes) to get involved.

Cheers,
Paul

ktnbs wrote:DnD,

I take it you are probably going to do a third attempt? I have taken a hiatus from NZ trips due to moves and $ issues but may be in a position to do so again this N.American winter.

Yeah, I'm keen for a third attempt. Not sure when yet.

I've got a good weather watch link for Earnslaw on my work computer. I'll link it to this thread when I'm back at the office.

...and here it is. You can surf around this site for other peaks, different conditions at various elevations etc etc.

http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Earnslaw/forecasts/2830

Looks like things are cooling down over there.

Hi Guys,
It's looking like I will be in NZ working for a couple of days from the 7th May. I am thinking of staying on for a week or so to do a trip. I am considering Earnslaw if it has not received too much early snow and of course if there is a decent weather window. Please feel free to get in contact if you are interested in joining me. I am also interested in the Remarkables traverse which looks great so I will have a rope and small rack with me.
Thanks for that forecast link DnD, really good.

Cheers
Nick

Sorry Guys, connection went down so send was pushes more than once.

Cheers