Stoney Indian Peaks, GNP

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Northern Rockies. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Northern Rockies Climbing Partners section.
User Avatar

Posts: 65
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 10:06 am
Thanked: 10 times in 9 posts

Stoney Indian Peaks, GNP

by RoryKuykendall » Fri Dec 07, 2012 6:10 am

What's the deal with these freakin' things? Has anyone ever climbed any of them? Has anyone ever tried? I can find no mention in the climber's guide or on the internet of anyone ever making any attempt on these peaks, even though the high one is one of the highest and most spectacular peaks in the whole park. I've worked and climbed for four summers in Glacier and I know nothing about the climbing history of these peaks.

Does anyone know anything?

Ear Mountain, you're probably my best hope for an answer on this one.

User Avatar

Posts: 64
Joined: Thu May 06, 2010 6:30 pm
Thanked: 15 times in 14 posts

Re: Stoney Indian Peaks, GNP

by EarMountain » Fri Dec 07, 2012 2:37 pm

The Stoney Indian Peaks are part of the big Mount Cleveland massif. as such most climbers who are in that area are focused on the bigger personality nearby and don't think of climbing them. Same thing can be said for oft named Kaiser Point (9,996 ft.) which lies just NE of the summit of Cleveland. I personally have not yet climbed the Stoney Indian Peaks. I know of two individuals from the Kalispell area who have. They camped at Stoney Indian Lake, ascended directly to the notch in the ridge that many climbers use to reach the traverse to Mount Cleveland. From there they ascended near the ridge to the first of the peaks north of the notch. After summiting that they continued north, summited the next of the Stoney Indian Peaks and finally continued on to the summit of Mount Cleveland.

They reported mostly class three climbing with a few pitches of class four.
Ear Mountain Photography.
Text and photos Copyright 2007-2012.

User Avatar

Posts: 65
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 10:06 am
Thanked: 10 times in 9 posts

Re: Stoney Indian Peaks, GNP

by RoryKuykendall » Sat Dec 08, 2012 12:15 am

Thanks for the quick response sir. That sounds pretty encouraging. I wonder who these two badasses are from Kalispell that climbed the peaks, and I wonder if they were the first. I'd love to get up there.

By the way, I was fortunate enough to climb Kaiser Point last summer and I wanted to report to you that no one had been up there since you and Brian Kennedy signed the register in 2006 (at least I think it was you two, if I remember correctly). I also climbed Reuter Peak last summer and I think you may have been the last person to climb that one too. The last entry there was from 2009. Both mountains had similar looking registers, little tiny ones with rolled paper and a short pencil. They were both in good shape. Did you put those there? Needless to say, your track record in that park is remarkable, and apparently you aren't slowing down. It's really impressive.

While we're here, I might as well ask, what do you know about the climbing history of the infamous "Lithoid Cusp"? It's often referred to as unclimbed, but there are whispers that some locals got up there at some point. One person on this site told me that it was climbed, and that the crux moves were around 5.9, but I have no way knowing how reliable that information is.


User Avatar

Posts: 906
Joined: Thu May 23, 2002 4:14 pm
Thanked: 13 times in 9 posts

Re: Stoney Indian Peaks, GNP

by Klenke » Thu Dec 13, 2012 12:54 am

Referring to this big picture,
Stoney Indian South (Main Peak) is visible at center.
Stoney Indian Middle (Pinnacle) is at right-center.
Stoney Indian North (lesser peak) is out of view at right.

It appeared to me that SIS would be easiest on its South Ridge or close to it (left skyline in the pic). The red cliff band is likely the biggest impediment. But there are some notches in the ridgeline so maybe keep just right (east) of the crest. Or go straight up the gut of the East Face.

SIM looked more difficult--especially getting up through the red cliff.

SIN looks like a piece of cake. Just a ledgy walk-up.

User Avatar

Posts: 16
Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2013 2:29 am
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Stoney Indian Peaks, GNP

by ManyGlacierMountaineer » Thu Feb 21, 2013 3:39 am

Rory, SIS could be easily climbed. SIM and SIN both look very formidable from the Traverse to Cleveland, especially SIM. As Klonke stated, the red strata is the biggest obstacle to overcome (and it is definitely formidable). Since I climbed Cleveland the last 2 summers, if I get to the Stoney Indian area again, I'll be going for SIM and SIN. If I get up there and find any summit registers, you'll be the first to know.

Return to Northern Rockies (ID, MT, WY)


  • Related topics
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests