mrchad9 wrote:I've said before I've thought the rangers present on Shasta are perhaps the best in the business.

+1

2) Even if you are hired as or pretend to be a professional guide, please provide objective data about the route conditions or even better say nothing, but do not make up stories and conclusion about the feasibility of routes because that is very subjective and in most cases phony, especially stated by an inexperienced person (guide).

3) How the hell you are allowed to teach anything about mountaineering if you do not know, not to mention implement, basic climbing techniques and principles (perhaps except some names)! Till that person has not told me about being a professional guide, I treated that person as a beginner (and was even sorry) but then got really frustrated because it created safety hazard to my team climbing below.

To be a guide you have to talk like an expert and act like you are better than everyone. If someone asks about condition of the route, tell them they are not qualified to climb it, unless they hire a guide of course.

Vitaliy M. wrote:

2) Even if you are hired as or pretend to be a professional guide, please provide objective data about the route conditions or even better say nothing, but do not make up stories and conclusion about the feasibility of routes because that is very subjective and in most cases phony, especially stated by an inexperienced person (guide).

3) How the hell you are allowed to teach anything about mountaineering if you do not know, not to mention implement, basic climbing techniques and principles (perhaps except some names)! Till that person has not told me about being a professional guide, I treated that person as a beginner (and was even sorry) but then got really frustrated because it created safety hazard to my team climbing below.

To be a guide you have to talk like an expert and act like you are better than everyone. If someone asks about condition of the route, tell them they are not qualified to climb it, unless they hire a guide of course.

Shet!

I hear them guides don't let you jump crevasses without a rope either

powderjunkie wrote:I hear them guides don't let you jump crevasses without a rope either

Yeah, one time on the top of Kautz Ice Gully guides set up a repeal station for their clients and invited me to use their rope. I think they were more concerned about their clients seeing something they should not rather than my health. Well they did not provide harness and also I needed an exercise and down climbed the slope. They were very unhappy commenting it later. Don’t blame them; it’s their business. But why they just don’t leave me alone?

They have no role or right telling anyone else on the mountain what to do. That isn't their business.

mrchad9 wrote:They have no role or right telling anyone else on the mountain what to do. That isn't their business.

Exactly!!!

Climbing rangers have never had any problem with that and don’t even ask if I have a solo permit; unless I stay at Camp Muir or Shurman.

FWIW, I believe the guiding profession is improving for the better since the formation of the AMGA and the very strict certification process which ultimately leads to full IFMGA certification as well. My friends who are still guiding are absolute professionals, dedicated to their craft and their client's safety and enjoyment.

That said, I know of a number of long established guide companies who resisted compliance with the AMGA, insisting their institutional knowledge was superior than the European model and still put little stock in AMGA/IFMGA certified guides. The best guide services insist on AMGA/IFMGA certs or at least significant progress towards that goal.

Also, about the ice axe thing, some outfits teach their clients to use axes without a leash. They would rather have their clients lose the axe in a fall than risk an injury from tumbling with an attached axe. Many guides prefer to actually teach their clients how to self arrest with the thing.

And seriously, good American professional guides don't do it as a summer job, they follow the seasons; spring in AK or the Himalaya, summer in South America/Cascades/Sierras, winter guiding ice in New Hampshire or as a safety officer in Antarctica or as a BC ski guide.

Here is the trip video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Kv5ho95uYI
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Kv5ho95uYI[/youtube]

so you're the one guiding?