Where to start winter mountaineering in Utah

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mikejfrancis

 
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Where to start winter mountaineering in Utah

by mikejfrancis » Mon Dec 08, 2014 2:37 am

I have no experience mountaineering though I have been researching the sport over the last few months. I enjoy camping and want to extend camping into the fourth season. I do have some experience sport climbing. I understand that avalanche knowledge is essential.

I'm not looking for advice regarding gear, what I need is a list of locations and summits that you guys would recommend tackling first as someone gets his feet wet with mountaineering. Someday I would love to do Everest Ridge up the west face of Timp. From my understanding this is not a technical climb just steep. In other words, which hikes / climbs would you suggest to someone wanting to start out with non technical mountaineering with little exposure but looking forward to getting experience necessary to do some climbs with more technical sections?

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Scott
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Re: Where to start winter mountaineering in Utah

by Scott » Mon Dec 08, 2014 2:51 am

The West Ridge of Provo Peak from the valley floor has similar elevation gain to the Everest Ridge, and is strenuous, but is safer and less technical. It would be a good practice climb once you are up to it. If you find that you can't do Provo Peak from the valley floor, forget about the Everest Ridge.

Of course there are many climbs around which are less strenuous, but still a good workout.

Some of the safer options are Thurston Peak from the valley floor, Gobblers Knob from Butler Fork, or if you want something easier, Reynolds Peak or Little Water Peak. Mt Olympus can make a good winter climb too as can Deseret Peak (which can have one avy slope above the saddle).

Ridge tops are generally safer in winter, but watch (and stay away from) those cornices! Make sure you have some understanding of avalanche terrain. There are climbs in the Wasatch where avalanche danger can be minimized, but learn how to pick out safe routes. The Wasatch can be very dangerous when it comes to avalanches.

Also consider going with others. The Wasatch Club does many snowshoe, skiing, and climbing trips throughout the winter,

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mikejfrancis

 
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Re: Where to start winter mountaineering in Utah

by mikejfrancis » Mon Dec 08, 2014 7:08 pm

Exactly what I was looking for, thanks Scott.


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