jmeizis wrote:Yeah, the Cascades are pretty rugged. They're very steep and there are many climbs that can involve a great bushwhack. So coming from the Alps you may be somewhat frustrated by the amount of hiking and off trail hiking just to get to some of the climbs.

Despite this there is a lot of good stuff that can be done in September because of the stable weather. West Arete of Eldorado is a good alternative to the Torment-Forbidden traverse if you want to get more rock in and it's about 5a. East Ridge is what I would consider a good example of a PD- route. There is quite a bit of stuff in the Southern pickets that can be fun if you're prepared for some brush. Things like McMillan Spire and Inspiration have some good day routes and some long challenging north facing routes in that 5b/c range. I will be guiding someone from Scotland out there in July and should have some pictures. I've climbed the N. Face of Shuksan in September and it's certainly more difficult but not impossible (actually the hardest part was the bushwhack) but that's a more AD/AD+ route I would think. I imagine the same could be said about the TFT in terms of getting on the route itself although it's easier earlier on in the season. Depending on how much time you have and how rowdy you want to get something like Mount Fury or Mount Challenger are pretty remote and challenging.

Not to self promote but since you asked I guide in Colorado but also in the Cascades, http://www.coclimbing.com. As a little added incentive, every time I go out to the Cascades in September it's dry and awesome. Then when I leave it rains for a week straight. So in addition to my guiding I may be a good weather charm, wouldn't make any guarantees though I'll actually be out there from the 9th-18th for an advanced guiding course and would be psyched to get some climbing in before or after.

Depending on what you're into I could make some more relevant suggestions. Most of my knowledge is of things actually in the North Cascades National Park which is where I have permits. That's where most of the best climbing is though in my opinion. A lot of the volcanoes are pretty sloggy (most of the challenging routes are considered "out" by September). The Pickets and Enchantments are the best in my opinion but outside of the volcanoes the rock is fairly decent wherever you go. Most of the challenge with the glaciers is finding a route thru them and onto rock that late in the season. Still lots of fun stuff out there.