Hey Guys,

New to Summit Post, but avid climber. I've done several of the summits in the cascades and really all over the states. One, that I haven't bagged though, is Rainier.

I will be out in Seattle for work on May 11-13th and had hoped to attempt Rainier the following weekend: drive to Paradise Friday evening or Saturday morning, hike to base camp, take off early Sunday morning and back down for a flight out. Open to suggestions though.

My normal climbing partner is in London currently on business and won't be back for 3 weeks. We're scheduled to do Matterhorn in July and wanted to get Rainier done before we head out.

My question, is anyone else going to be on the trail that weekend? I'd love to tag along as I am weary about soloing the trek.

If anyone wants to private message me to get to know me, my technical skills, or anything else, please feel free.

Thanks,
Topher

Rainier is unique among US mountains for its obnoxious permit system, including a special solo permit for which you must meet arbitrary, unspecified standards. Being roped to someone probably made me *less* safe when I did it, but it made the paperwork easier, and I enjoyed the company.

TopherBarrow wrote:My question, is anyone else going to be on the trail that weekend? I'd love to tag along as I am weary about soloing the trek.

If no one from SP joins, try CascadeClimbers or NWhikers. You are likely to find someone if you do it soon.

As for Rainier being a "trek", well not exactly. It should be taken seriously, but is not super long. But unlike a trek, the glacier travel aspect should be treated with care (knowledge of ice axe and crevasse rescue + proper gear).

Thanks guys!

I know Rainier isn't to be taken lightly. I've spoken with my normal climbing team that have done it, and they didn't sugarcoat what to expect.

I've got the knowledge and gear and have done other glacial mountains in the area.

Josh, I appreciate the recommendation, and I will check into those sites now.

Thanks again,
Topher

seano wrote:Rainier is unique among US mountains for its obnoxious permit system,,.

No, you are wrong. Many other peaks within the US have similar or more stringent permitting systems. The permit system on Rainier is quite appropriate for its scale and terrain.

seano wrote:...including a special solo permit for which you must meet arbitrary, unspecified standards Being roped to someone probably made me *less* safe when I did it

Kind of like wearing a helmet when riding a motorcycle. You may feel less safe because your auditory and visual senses are somewhat diminished, but the statistics speak for themselves. Falling into a crevasse while roped to a properly equipped and trained team increases your chances of survival immeasurably, much like wearing a helmet when you are in a motorbike accident.

ExcitableBoy wrote:No, you are wrong. Many other peaks within the US have similar or more stringent permitting systems.

Maybe -- it looks like Denali and Foraker have a similar permit system, while the Ruth Gorge does not. I know Shasta and some of the other volcanos like Adams have special fees, but not special permits. Nothing in the North Cascades requires a permit unless you camp. What am I missing?

seano wrote:...including a special solo permit for which you must meet arbitrary, unspecified standards. Being roped to someone probably made me *less* safe when I did it

Kind of like wearing a helmet when riding a motorcycle.

No, you are wrong. I did it roped to one person heavier than myself. I probably would have died if either of us had stepped in a crevasse, but that's why I chose a partner who was comfortable on snow, and a well-traveled route where the odds of falling in a crevasse by accident are vanishingly small.

seano wrote:"Many other peaks within the US have similar or more stringent permitting systems."
Maybe -- it looks like Denali and Foraker have a similar permit system, while the Ruth Gorge does not. I know Shasta and some of the other volcanos like Adams have special fees, but not special permits. ...including a special solo permit for which you must meet arbitrary, unspecified standards. Being roped to someone probably made me *less* safe when I did it. What am I missing?

Not "maybe, the permit system for Denali and Foraker is more stringent than Rainier. I know because I have made multiple trips to the AK Range. I think what you are missing is some humility when it comes to climbing large active glaciers.

seano wrote:No, you are wrong. I did it roped to one person heavier than myself. I probably would have died if either of us had stepped in a crevasse, but that's why I chose a partner who was comfortable on snow, and a well-traveled route where the odds of falling in a crevasse by accident are vanishingly small.

If one of you would have died should you step into a crevasse then you need to spend some time learning proper glacier travel techniques. I have been on both ends of a full an crevasse fall, both with partners heavier than myself. Once on Rainier in winter, once in the Ruth Gorge. We quickly and efficiently self rescued because we know what we are doing.

ExcitableBoy wrote:If one of you would have died should you step into a crevasse then you need to spend some time learning proper glacier travel techniques. I have been on both ends of a full an creasse fall, both with partners heavier than myself. Once on Rainier in winter, once in the Ruth Gorge. We quickly and efficiently self rescued because we know what we are doing. For you own safety and the safety of those sent to retrieve your body, perhaps you should stay off of glaciers until you get it sorted out.

Note that I was not on Rainier during the winter, nor was I in the Ruth Gorge. I very deliberately walked up and down a well-traveled route on a sunny summer day.

I carefully measure the risks I take, and no one should waste any time or effort dealing with my body if I screw up. This nonsense should continue in private, if at all.