I am looking to climb next weekend if any one has any beta on Casaval Ridge or Green Butte route it would be greatly appreciated. I have been keeping up with the weather reports and advisories from the MT. Shasta Avalanche center. If anyone has been up either route recently or has any beta for a different route i am open for suggestions. We have allotted 2-3 days for the climb.
Thanks,Wen

I'm hoping to get on either route in about 3 weeks and will be interested in the responses you get.

We are planning to head up Casaval Fri and Sat of next weekend if the weather cooperates, maybe I'll see you up there.

Scott

Please do report back, i'm interested as well...

I've been on Casaval twice, but have been turned back both times. Once in December due to questionably stable snow conditions on the ridge, and another time in April because we were moving too slowly to summit, descend, pack up camp, and drive all the way back to the Bay Area in the same day. We stopped just below the Catwalk and turned back. Our April conditions were windy and overcast, but generally pretty good for climbing. From what I've seen so far, Casaval is a beautiful climb. Looking forward to getting up it next time.

Advice:

Camp:
To save some time on summit day, I'd recommend setting up camp on the first large mound that's at the toe of Casaval Ridge. Though perhaps a bit exposed, it makes your nighttime navigation to the start of ridge a little easier, and gets you climbing more quickly. It also has a fantastic view of the valley, and the ridge when the clouds break, and so provides a good sense of conditions on summit morning. The down-side is that after your descent (if you descend via Avalanche Gully), you'll have to climb several hundred feet to reach your camp again.

Time:
Allow yourself time to climb the route on summit day. Ideally, either return to camp and stay there one more night, or stay locally if you prefer to warm up and dry off after the long day.

Interested to hear about your trips, if you went up Green Butte...I have plans to climb April 15 and 16 if I can find a partner. I may have to solo. Beta would be great on your return!

Sent you a PM,Mud

Before heading to Whitney, I usually check out the Whitney Portal Store message board. It has some recent trip reports, and useful information about current conditions. Is there a similar message board for Shasta?

http://www.shastaavalanche.org/
http://www.climbingmtshasta.org/
http://www.fmsac.org/