We've been to the russian side (Bezengi) in july, bagging the easier 4k peaks. See report (in german).

As I got it, access to the ultimate border zone formally is "forbidden", beginning with the upper bezengi glacier. I.e. all the people starting to shkhara, katyn, jangi from the russian side do that illegal *g*.
Apart from that you just have to tell your plans the rescue station at bezengi base camp; the only further red tape is the border zone permit, which usually is provided by base camp -- just mail/call them in advance.

Martin

Hi!

Saw this by pure conincidence.

Georgian side is easy to get to. Visa-free for most Europeans, safe (the stories of robbery and war are history), incredibly hospitable. I go there every year at least once.
Now Shkhara: Not sure about your background, but please note that Shkhara from Georgian is an entirely different league than most other "popular" mountains in the Caucasus. In fact, it is amongst the hardest mountains I have climbed. My Georgian friends and I call it an "animal". Route finding is not easy, the descent down the same route challenging (there used to be a 4B route, I was on that last year - not recommended...long, glaciers in terrible shape, much harder now). if something happens getting off is hard, few good camp places. I do not recommded attempting it without previous Caucasus experience on less difficult mountains - e.g. Koshtan-Tau. I think Shkhara from Georgia is the most difficult mountain in the Caucasus, more challenging overall even than Ushba (which I have climbed).If you go, I suggest late June, early July or late August. The thunderstorm tendency in mid-summer drives me nuts...

Let me know if you have more questions. Have you considered Shkhara West (5068m)? There is a 5A route that I think may be a wiser choice...or go from Russian side. But apply for Bezengi permit plenty of time before. But I suggest to visit Georgia regardless.

Good luck,
Peter

Ski Mountaineer wrote:or go from Russian side. But apply for Bezengi permit plenty of time before.

The Bezengi webside states that one shall request the border zone permit 60 days in advance.
We mailed our data about six weeks before arrival to the basecamp and that worked fine without complications.

During the two weeks in Bezengi we met quite some mountaineers,who aimed for Shkhara oder allready summited it. From that I suppose the ascent from the russian side is more ore less normal and of course also will be in 2013.
Nevertheless it is one of the hardest peaks in caucasus which the OP for sure is aware of

@Peter: I understand that you come from or live in Georgia?

Martin

Shkara from russia is a long snow/ice knife edge ridge route (I have only seen it from below many years ago and talked with people who did it) f6c wont help a bit, plan to spend a night on the route. Previous experience on similar routes in Alps would be advisable. Classic Climbs in the Caucasus [Friedrich Bender] is probably the only guidebook in english.

There's a SP page for russian grading
http://www.summitpost.org/russian-alpine-grades/178646

As far as i can see it's taken from Bender...

Russian Grade Alpine Grade UIAA Grade
1B F/PD I/II
2A PD II
2B PD+ II/III
3A AD III
3B AD+/D- III/IV
4A D IV
4B D+/TD- IV/V
5A TD/ED V
5B TD+/ED V/VI
6A ED/ED+ VI
6B ED3 and up VII

Bender adds also some alpine routes for comparison, have to ask my mate for that.

IMHO that says a lot, but not all. Climbing with crampons, gloves, lousy protection and heavy pack (bivouac!) in altitude is different... forget about sportsclimbing grades

As you have to be self-sufficient in Caucasus you for sure will slowly progress with difficulty during your stay there and find out yourself, how e.g. a 3B or so feels. Perhaps you do Misses-Tau as a start. It's near the bezengi camp, helps acclimatization and has AFAIR normal route about 3A/B and an ice route 4A.

What we have found (we met a czech team that did Shkhara and some more who planned theascent) for Shkhara normal route says IV-V and 60° ice.

The Russian normal route is 5A, the Georgian one 5B. The Georgian route (south pillar) is 2200m vertical with 45-55° snow max, 2-4 UIAA rock. Brief route description: http://www.skitalets.ru/books/svanetia_naumov/ route Nr. 111. Also: http://www.stadler-markus.de/kaukasus/f ... netien.htm I recommend against taking their descent route. You will not find it on your own and it is in really bad shape, with several re-ascents up 60°+ slopes (I was on that route, too). When something goes wrong, you are in the wrong country with all the trouble associated with it. Rather descent the ascent route (south pillar).
The south pillar route never gets really difficult, but the difficulties are constant. The route takes about 6-7 days, or more with bad weather. Going with somebody who knows the route is strongly recommended, because of route finding (particularly when descenting). If go alone, do not go the first time you are in the Caucasus. Get experience elsewhere, get a feel for it. Go to Shkhara when you are sure you can do it. Not a good route to "try".
3B/4A and 5B are very different leagues. There are very few 4A and 4B routes to the 4800m+ summits in Georgia for preparation, really only Tetnuld NE ridge (nightmare to get to) and Ushba north 4A (probably best choice). Russian side has a few more (Dych-Tau, Koshtan), which are also a bit more similar in character to Shkhara. All south face routes of Janga-Tau 5058m are 5B too and there is even less info. Other 4A routes are mainly due to difficult approaches and glaciers (Shota Rustaveli and traverse to Janga-Tau - just came back from there, Gestola, Katyn). I suppose some routes in the Alps may serve for preparation too (Brenva and Walker Spur or Bumiller Pillar come to mind, but I do not know the Western Alps at all, really), but they will not gain you any experience with Caucasus weather and logistics.

Martin - I do not really live anywhere constanly currently, I lived/worked the last years in Canada, Norway and Japan, but home is Austria, second home is Georgia (-:

Take care,
Peter