Slipstream

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Canada and Alaska. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Canada and Alaska Climbing Partners forum.
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MichaelJ

 
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Slipstream

by MichaelJ » Wed Mar 03, 2010 6:25 pm

Slipstream has been climbed twice in the last few weeks. First by a guided (!) party to the end of the last WI4 pitch, who then put in 15 v-threads to get off. The second team went to the summit after a bivy in an ice cave atop the last waterfall pitch. The last two pitches were the psych crux of the route: 200 feet of loose, unconsolidated snow, then an overhanging cornice with mostly rotten ice below, although you can get a good screw before committing to pull the lip. The objective danger seemed about as low as it's likely to get on this route, although the bullet ice conditions certainly slowed down both teams.

Some cool video here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yDVkAJH4 ... re=related

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chugach001

 
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by chugach001 » Sun Apr 11, 2010 3:25 am

Your Wall Street Journal article on Slipstream was awesome. Probably your best yet and I have been a big fan for years. Keep up the great work.

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MichaelJ

 
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by MichaelJ » Thu Apr 22, 2010 9:23 am

:oops:

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chugach001

 
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Re: Slipstream

by chugach001 » Thu Aug 23, 2012 5:29 pm

Michael, we'll miss you!


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