Slovenia: Mangart-Jalovec traverse

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Nikolas_A

 
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Slovenia: Mangart-Jalovec traverse

by Nikolas_A » Wed Aug 25, 2010 3:59 pm

Has anybody here done it? The ridge line seems razor thin, the map shows it as a path, albeit difficult (dotted line) and the guide describes it as "barely passable". Sounds like fun...

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by Nikolas_A » Wed Aug 25, 2010 8:48 pm

Novak2 wrote:"The mountains are not a gym"
Bob Burd


Thanks, that really helped...

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Vid Pogachnik
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by Vid Pogachnik » Wed Aug 25, 2010 9:21 pm

Nikolas,

Jalovec and Mangart look close, but to do a traverse they are quite far away. I haven't done the whole in one part, but know most of sections.

From Mangart saddle on the top of Mangart it's known (2 routes). Then the marked path goes towards the east. One variant soon crosses the southern slopes of Mali Mangart and descends considerably in the upper part of Koritnica valley. That's a marked path, not easy, but secured (a few ferrata sections). If you'd really like to keep on the main ridge, a marked route goes there, but it must be harder (didn't do it). There is not much information about it, perhaps it is not all the time secured with cables and pegs, so it requires some easy climbing. Should not be harder than degree II (UIAA). If one'd go there, he/she would descend from Mali Mangart to Zagerca saddle, where a bivouac stands. Just a good portion for the first day.

The second day would mean again - by the unmarked passage down into the upper Koritnica valley and then up (some 300 m) on Kotovo sedlo (saddle), or by the main ridge again. That would be tricky, because: On V Koncu spica and further on Kotova spica the ridge is an easy climb. Not marked at all, UIAA I-II degree. However, when you are on Kotova spica, descending to Kotovo sedlo would mean either to abseil, or go around. Detour passages are not easy and must be known. There are no marks, no path, no ciarns, so, it's a climbing endeavour - in a descent.

Once on Kotovo sedlo - from there by the main ridge on Jalovec it's a well known, medium hard ferrata. Quite a lot for one day, if you consider that you must also descend from Jalovec.

In our student days with Jasmina we went in one day: Mangart saddle, top of Mangart, below the main ridge into the upper part of Koritnica, up on Kotovo sedlo, on Jalovec, and further down and on Vršič saddle. Needed some 11 hours of walk.

Cheers!
Vid

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Nikolas_A

 
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by Nikolas_A » Wed Aug 25, 2010 9:49 pm

Thanks Vid, that's exactly what I wanted to do (what you did). The "all ridge" route is not on my map. But up to "Huda skrbina" you were on the ridge, right? How low did you descent towards Koritnica? My map shows about 1800m at the junction for Kotovo Sedlo, about right?

We considered that route but some in the group weren't very fast so I didn't see us making it in 10-12 hours.

Well, in the to-do list! My other project is ski mountaineering:
Bohinska Bistrica - Kobla - Rodica - Vogel - Bogatin - Dolina Triglavskih jezer - Triglav - Bohinska Bistrica 8)

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Vid Pogachnik
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by Vid Pogachnik » Wed Aug 25, 2010 9:58 pm

Yes, Nikolas, I remember Huda skrbina, but then I don't remember any route to continue by the main ridge. I guess in 1972 if there was one, it was not marked. The junction in Koritnica is really at some 1800 m.

Your ski route! Hm. Everything fine, but it's not worth going from Kobla to Rodica. From Kobla to Crna prst it's still ok, between Crna prst and Rodica the ridge is sharp and not suitable for going with skis. If you go, don't forget crampons and ice pick. I would advise you to enjoy and simply go from Bohinjska Bistrica on Rodica and then (mostly below the South Bohinj ridge) towards the west, on Bogatin, and down to Komna. Or, to start simply on top of Vogel cable car (ski terrains).

Cheers!
Vid

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by Nikolas_A » Wed Aug 25, 2010 10:04 pm

Vid Pogachnik wrote:Yes, Nikolas, I remember Huda skrbina, but then I don't remember any route to continue by the main ridge. I guess in 1972 if there was one, it was not marked. The junction in Koritnica is really at some 1800 m.

Your ski route! Hm. Everything fine, but it's not worth going from Kobla to Rodica. From Kobla to Crna prst it's still ok, between Crna prst and Rodica the ridge is sharp and not suitable for going with skis. If you go, don't forget crampons and ice pick. I would advise you to enjoy and simply go from Bohinjska Bistrica on Rodica and then (mostly below the South Bohinj ridge) towards the west, on Bogatin, and down to Komna. Or, to start simply on top of Vogel cable car (ski terrains).

Cheers!
Vid


Ok, thanks a lot! I don't know when I'll be able to visit Slovenia again, I just know I will!
Cheers,
Nikolas

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Nikolas_A

 
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by Nikolas_A » Thu Aug 26, 2010 3:46 pm

Novak2, I mean the ridgeline between Mangart and Mali Mangart. The paths starts there (on the left of your map) and then turns right under Mali Mangart, towards the Koritnica and up again to Kotovo Sedlo. That ridgeline is what I'm talking about, I have no idea which one you're talking about.

I know how to read a map, but thanks again for your very useful comments...


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