What gear to get first?

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kevinpengnz

 
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What gear to get first?

by kevinpengnz » Tue Dec 13, 2016 9:20 pm

Hey guys, I'm an avid tramper wanting to get into mountaineering next year in New Zealand and have done a fair bit of research, especially on gear - I lack things such as stiff mountaineering boots, crampons, rope, ice axe, harnesses, helmet, carabiners & quickdraws, air sleeping mat, and of course experience though I suppose that doesn't count as gear :D

For beginning rock climbing (it seems like a logical way to become more knowledgeable of roping up, experience height exposure etc.) I have been told it's best to start off with a pair of climbing shoes since they are such a "personal" purchase. However, I am quite stuck on what mountaineering gear to strive towards getting - what gear do you recommend getting first?

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nartreb

 
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Re: What gear to get first?

by nartreb » Wed Dec 14, 2016 4:43 pm

An experienced partner, and/or a roomy automobile with decent ground clearance.

There's no point in buying rock climbing gear before you know how to use it. Find an experienced climber - experienced enough to have his/her own rope, 'biners, etc. etc. You'll be using his/hers while you learn how to use it.

So first get your "personal" stuff: harness, helmet, shoes, chalk, belay device, a 'biner or three, maybe a couple short lengths of cordelette for miscellaneous uses ( rap backup prussik, personal anchor) and for practice tying knots.

When choosing climbing shoes, don't let yourself get sold anything "technical", get a "trad beginner" shoe, those are most comfortable.

For snow travel, you can learn to walk in crampons and even use an ice axe on your own, but stay out of avalanche zones and don't attempt steep ice or glaciers, without an experienced partner.

As for camping, get your own sleeping bag, pad, and anything else you can't share. You can certainly muddle through on your own here too, so if you don't want to wait to find a partner you could get a tent, stove, etc and just go for it.

Again, your best bet is to find a partner. That's where a capable auto can come in handy. Your partner provides guidance, you provide the ride.

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Ellesmere

 
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Re: What gear to get first?

by Ellesmere » Thu Dec 15, 2016 2:14 am

First get some
- nice cosy long underwear
- hiking socks and wool socks
- gaiters with membrane
- cheap fleece pullovers, and plastic shirts
- buff, ski mask
- thin plus sturdy thick gloves, or wool gloves
- Packlite hardshell w/ pit-zips
- category C boots made of leather (no cordura)
- Petzl Vasak crampons w/ lever at heel
- Black Diamond Venom w/ shovel
- there should be an ultra light harness of 250 gr., plus regular harness for more intense belaying/climbing
- helmet I prefer a light styrofoam, so you enjoy bringing it always
- cat 4 sunglasses
- good lamp. i recommend Xtar H3 w/ 18650 akku
- cheap walking sticks with snow and trekking plates
- simple compass, altimeter (digital and/or analog) GPS, maps
- literature for studying technique, and guiding literature
- sun hat, lip care, sun blocker
- Mountain Equipment ultralight bivy bag
- very small first aid package including sport tape

for climbing - depends of course greatly on what you do:
- 4 wiregate quickdraws, with at least medium sling lenght
- at least one safelock hms carbine
- 3 more hms of different sizes
- some hook-free normal carbines
- 2xdyneema slings short, normal, long
- two longer ice screws for glacier traverse, or more, for ice climbing
- few meters rope material 4/5/6 mm, for prusiks, etc.
- maybe pitons, hammer, or ice axe with hammer :)
- two black diamond camalots/friends
- 5 medium nuts
- 50 m 9mm single rope with water-resistant sealing
- maybe Petzl Micro Traxion, and/or Tibloc

Then you don't really have anything. Because experience is capital, experience in years.

So yes, partners, building up know-how and ability of decision making ex-ante, and onsite.

Oh, and then there is winter...

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