Which is More Dangerous?

by **chrisk1** » Tue Feb 08, 2011 11:26 pm

Climbing Up or Climbing Down?

I don't mean skiing down or repelling down.

If you had to climb a steep face which would be more difficult or dangerous?

I am not a climber, I am just curious.

Thanks

by **aran** » Wed Feb 09, 2011 12:29 am

Down. For multiple reasons.

by **willytinawin** » Wed Feb 09, 2011 12:58 am

With or without a rope? If you take away the rope, I'd say going down is mentally harder because you must look at the exposure. Going up you can focus on where to put hands and feet. Going down you have to do the same thing while looking at how far you're gonna fall if you slip.

by **lcarreau** » Wed Feb 09, 2011 1:32 am

I'm not a climber. However, I've seen many people get themselves "stuck" on a ledge, and they couldn't get themselves back down.

Sorry, but it reminds me of this old song by ELP ...

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20tWx8HcyFg[/youtube]

by **WingLady** » Wed Feb 09, 2011 1:55 am

Down. One reason is that it's harder to see where you're placing your hands & feet.

by **wasclywabbit** » Wed Feb 09, 2011 1:47 pm

lcarreau wrote:I'm not a climber. However, I've seen many people get themselves "stuck" on a ledge, and they couldn't get themselves back down.

Sorry, but it reminds me of this old song by ELP ...

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20tWx8HcyFg[/youtube]

I still rank the ELP concert I saw circa 1977 as one of the top 5 shows I've ever seen. Definitely not Top 40 material.

[/End Thread Hijack]

by **willytinawin** » Wed Feb 09, 2011 4:44 pm

ELP's tune "from the beginning" is one of my all time favorites. I still have the LP Trilogy (but no record player).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gm1OJ0LAgt4

"I don't mean skiing down or repelling down. "....It's rAppelling, not rEpelling! Rappel is to descend a rope. Repel is to go without a shower for a few days.

by **Andes6000** » Thu Feb 10, 2011 4:02 am

Down. Also because climbers are tired and less focused after a summit push for instance. It is difficult to measure energy reserves, sometimes spending way too much energy trying to top out and getting dehydrated/exhausted for the way down. Even something like descending too quickly because of discomfort in the knees or a time constraint can lead to a fall. Which is why some people justify paragliding off the mountain instead.

by **Mountainjeff** » Thu Feb 10, 2011 7:23 am

Down for a multitude of reasons. All accidents and near accidents I have ever been involved in happened on the way down.

by **The Chief** » Thu Feb 10, 2011 7:53 am

Some of the greats in this game have made the same claim....

"If you can not downclimb what you have just climbed, than you have no business being on the rock or ice." (paraphrased)

Fact is, downclimbing is an art form in itself. Many of the best in the business spend hours doing so in order to familiarize themselves with the route. I do the same in some cases. It is fun and really puts one in the groove as to becoming a better climber.

Used to sit and watch John Bachar do unroped solo laps, up and then down, on many a routes (5.12's plus) in the Gorge. He was one of many to attest to the quote above. He always claimed that it made him a much more fluid and positive climber.

by **sneakyracer** » Sat Feb 12, 2011 11:26 pm

I dont think Ive ever gotten hurt going up a trail. I have twisted my ankles a few times going down. And the down part is usually at the end of the hike, so fatigue becomes a factor like most said. Technically its also more difficult to downclimb (without rappeling) than climbing up (climbing feels more natural).

So Id have to say down.

But both are equally dangerous if the objective dangers are high, avalanches, rockfall etc.

by **lcarreau** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 12:06 am

chrisjahn77 wrote:Down. Also because climbers are tired and less focused after a summit push for instance. It is difficult to measure energy reserves, sometimes spending way too much energy trying to top out and getting dehydrated/exhausted for the way down. Even something like descending too quickly because of discomfort in the knees or a time constraint can lead to a fall. Which is why some people justify paragliding off the mountain instead.

by **DersuUzala** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 11:16 pm

doowwwwwnnnn. And never be too proud to yell, "FALLING"!!

by **lcarreau** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 3:15 am

"Down you got me goin’, goin’ round you got me goin’
Down, down, down, down, down, down, down ...

Down to the bottom, to the bottom of a hole, goin’ down..."

:shock:

by **Diego Sahagún** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 3:19 pm

Down... But not under :wink:

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