Which mountain to climb in Cordillera Blanca / beginners.

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Boleslav

 
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Which mountain to climb in Cordillera Blanca / beginners.

by Boleslav » Tue Apr 27, 2010 8:08 pm

We'll have time to climb 2 mountains in Cordillera Blanca, which one would you suggest for the beginners? Wedid Pisco last year, enjoyed the scenery a lot and are looking for something similar. Would you recommend Ishinca, Urus, Vallunaraju.....?
We'll organize guide in Huaraz.
Thank you.

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etai101

 
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by etai101 » Tue Apr 27, 2010 8:52 pm

very breifley: vallunaraju, urus ,ishinca and the Pirámide
by the view and the intrest in the route i would go for the piramide it is also less climed then the others
good luck.

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MRoyer4

 
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by MRoyer4 » Tue Apr 27, 2010 9:20 pm

Piramide is not in the same league as the others listed. Pisco, as well as Urus, Ishinca, and Vallunaraju are all walk ups (max grade PD, if I remember correctly). I believe Piramide is at least a D, and was told a couple years ago that the route is becoming increasingly difficult as the glaciers change.

If you want a walk up, the three you mention will work. If you want something a little more challenging, try Yannapaccha and/or Chopicalqui. Those will probably require a couple pitches of easy belayed climbing.

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etai101

 
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by etai101 » Wed Apr 28, 2010 4:46 pm

[quote="MRoyer4"]Piramide is not in the same league as the others listed. Pisco, as well as Urus, Ishinca, and Vallunaraju are all walk ups (max grade PD, if I remember correctly). I believe Piramide is at least a D, and was told a couple years ago that the route is becoming increasingly difficult as the glaciers change.

http://www.summitpost.org/route/159424/ ... ridge.html

i climbed piramide almost 2 years ago and as far as i was concerned the AD rateing given here should have been a PD+.
i do agree that the changes in the ice fall and exposure could have changed so do all the mountains in this range its like a fact of life over there.
all there is about the piramide is a little more adventures climb then a walk up climb a bit more protection is needed and a langhthy approach.

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MRoyer4

 
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by MRoyer4 » Wed Apr 28, 2010 5:54 pm

I must have been thinking about a different route. My mistake. Cheers.

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Boleslav

 
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by Boleslav » Fri Apr 30, 2010 1:10 am

thanks for the replies.

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nattfodd

 
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by nattfodd » Fri Apr 30, 2010 11:58 am

Here's another vote for the Yannapaccha/Chopicalqui. It's around AD and nothing too hard, but it still feels like real climbing.

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jbetoo

 
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by jbetoo » Fri Apr 30, 2010 7:01 pm

Do you mean beginner as in first-time climber or beginner as in not lots of experience but has a climbed low-angle stuff at lower altitudes in North America and Europe?

If it was my first time on crampons and with an ice axe -- maybe a second or third time -- I wouldn't be recommend climbing anything other than Urus without a guide. With a guide, Pisco, Ishinca, Maparaju, Urus, Vallunraju would probably be fine.

I wouldn't attempt Chopi if I was a beginning climber (not a first-time climber) unless I was with more experienced people on my rope team. In 2005, there was crazy rockfall above Camp 1 and a snow bridge collapsed high on the ridge near the summit that required 30 meters of powder snow (couldn't really protect) on what now became a 70-degree powder face above a huge crevasse.

Every year is different, of course, but experience helps in the Blanca as decision making is always the most important aspect of mountaineering. That's why I was curious if you meant first-time climber or beginner with some experience because that changes the game a little bit. Because I'd be petrified about attempting many peaks in the Blanca if I was a first-time climber without previous experience.

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shottolo

 
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by shottolo » Mon May 03, 2010 2:08 pm

first time in Perù i climbed (with local guide) Urus, Ishinca and Tocllaraju
last time i climbed Pisco and Alpayo (try)

i think with guides Pisco, Urus and Ishinca are the best for a beginner

we did these with the OMG (operazione mato grosso) local guides (Marcarà)

ciao :)

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iechegar

 
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Try Vallunaraju

by iechegar » Tue Jun 22, 2010 1:39 am

Vallunaraju is perfectly suitable for 1st timer with a guide, last year I climbed it with a guide and it was my 2nd time with crampons


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