Which outfitter would you choose?

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RdC

 
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Which outfitter would you choose?

by RdC » Fri Jan 01, 2010 4:29 am

I would like to take a skills seminar in June '10 on Rainier.

I have little climbing experience and would like to learn the basics. I chose Rainier b/c the colder and snowier (or the more glaciers) the better - I live in SoCal, so Rainier is cold ans snowy to me.

My goal is a solid introduction/foundation so I can begin getting experience on my own and become self-reliant in the mountains (e.g. Rainier, Denali, smaller peaks in Himalaya - you get the idea).

I've been researching the usual guide services that offer Rainier expedition and glacier seminars: RMI, IMG, Alpine Ascents. Prices are relatively the same.

1. Can anyone share their thoughts on the benefits of one outfitter over the other?
2. Do they all approach climbing with the same philosophy, or are they different?
3. Knowing what you know today, what are 1 or 2 things I should consider when choosing an outfitter in general?

ps. I searched this topic(s) and didn't find my answer, sorry if this is a redundant question.

Thank you and Happy New Year!!
RdC

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bird

 
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by bird » Fri Jan 01, 2010 5:37 pm

There are plenty of threads on this topic.
IMO, RMI is more of a cattle drive up the mountain. The others appear to offer more skills training. American Alpine Institute used to do a great course on the Emmons, but no longer. Their Mt. Baker skills course and climb would offer good training. I've climbed with them 2x and got a lot out of it.

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RdC

 
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by RdC » Fri Jan 01, 2010 9:11 pm

Thanks Bird. I will check out the AAI Mt. Baker course.

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Brad Marshall

 
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Re: Which outfitter would you choose?

by Brad Marshall » Fri Jan 01, 2010 10:05 pm

RdC wrote:I would like to take a skills seminar in June '10 on Rainier.

I have little climbing experience and would like to learn the basics...My goal is a solid introduction/foundation so I can begin getting experience on my own and become self-reliant in the mountains (e.g. Rainier, Denali, smaller peaks in Himalaya - you get the idea).


I can't comment on any of the larger firms like RMI or AAI but have you considered contacting fellow SPer Kurt Wedberg of Sierra Mountaineering International in Bishop? Kurt has a 5-day mountaineering skills course scheduled for June 9-13. Sometimes it's better to get instruction from a smaller firm because they tend to have smaller groups and you get more personal attention.

http://www.sierramountaineering.com/

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JHH60

 
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by JHH60 » Sat Jan 02, 2010 1:21 am

I've heard good things about Kurt (and not just from the Chief). One question you should ask is what kind of training you want? I did classes with AAI in the Sierra (9 day mountaineering) and on Mt. Baker (6 day alpine ice) and they were very different in focus. Mt. Baker and Mt. Rainier are probably the best places on the US West coast for training on glaciated travel, snow climbing, and alpine ice. The Sierra is arguably one of the best places for alpine rock. If you're going to climb in the southern Sierra a local course would be ideal, but if you wanted to climb in the Cascades or other high, snowy mountains you'd want glacier mountaineering training.

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RdC

 
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by RdC » Sat Jan 02, 2010 4:43 am

Thanks Brad/JHH for suggesting Kurt. I prefer local perspectives as well. I am familiar with Bishop as my wife and I fly fish the area quite a bit. And, having spent some time in the Sierra I can say from a climbing/camping POV, I am drawn toward the colder whiter (glacial) mountains over the milder rocky ranges like the Sierra. Don't get me wrong the Sierra offer some intense ecology and are wonderful, but in the end, I'm after Rainier and the like, and hopefully someday Denali et al.

As for AAI, they really sound like the right place for my lack of skills and desires. It is sounding more and more like RMI just wants to get you up and down safely without teaching you how to become an asset to a team.

RdC


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