Wich mountains in Cordillera Blanca, Peru

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tom1981

 
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Wich mountains in Cordillera Blanca, Peru

by tom1981 » Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:01 pm

Hello,

In 2 weeks I will be at the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. I have some climbing experience (done climbing in France and Switserland for about 7 years, max AD) and want to climb some mountains. Wich ones are recommended witch my level of exerience ?

And I suppose it´s easy to find a partner in Huaraz ?

What about guides ? Is it allowed to climb without a guide ?

Thanks a lot, Tom.

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nattfodd

 
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by nattfodd » Mon Jul 27, 2009 8:11 pm

For acclimatization, you can climb Pisco (F, quite crowded) or Yannapaccha (PD/AD, less frequented). I did the latter, and then followed with Chopicalqui (AD), which is supposed to be the easiest 6000 in the range, but some people were reporting recently that it is not in condition anymore. Closer to Huaraz, you can try e.g. Vallunaraju (PD I believe). Then there is a lot of stuff that is a bit harder (e.g. Alpamayo, Huascaran and Artesonraju all have a D route, iirc) but could be very interesting.

I had no luck finding partners in Huaraz despite advertising in the casa de guias, but it was early season, so it could be easier now. Reports on climbing guideless are varying, but it seems that the rule is not being very strictly enforced. Certainly many people have done it, including some SPers.

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TYeary

 
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by TYeary » Tue Jul 28, 2009 2:50 am

You might want to consider the Ishinca Valley, and the peaks Urus Este, Ishinca, Ranrapalca and Tocllaraju. Easy one day approach to base camp. All can be climbed with one high camp. Urus and Ishinca can be done in a day from base if you are fit. See http://www.mountainproject.com/v/intern ... /106369446

Good luck and good climbing!
Tony

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saintlade

 
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by saintlade » Tue Jul 28, 2009 3:01 am

Hey, my plans are to be Huaraz at the same time as yourself and I am keen to get some climbing done. You can email me through here.

Stu

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Ario

 
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by Ario » Wed Jul 29, 2009 8:15 am

Wich ones are recommended witch my level of exerience ?

normal routes of the following 5000m summits: Pastururi (F), Maparaju (F), Urus Este (PD-), Ishinca (F and PD, 2 routes), Pisco (currently PD), VALLUNARAJU (PD and AD, 2 routes) and Yanapaccha (PD/AD).
in the 6000m range Copa NR is in bad condition (with an icy canaleta the grade should be increased to AD); Chopicalqui NR is currently AD but check the conditions, especially as for the last bergschrund; Tocllaraju (Toqllaraju) NR (actually a variation of the NR) is currently a grade D...


I suppose it´s easy to find a partner in Huaraz ?

depends how flexible you are...

What about guides ? Is it allowed to climb without a guide ?

only if you are member of a UIAA affiliated club (most European Alpine clubs / verein are).


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