The Wisconsin DNR has released its draft master plan for the Central Sand area. This area includes Devil's Lake and Gibraltar Rock. The new master plan will determine the future of recreational activities, including climbing, on these lands. These plans are only reviewed every 15 years. This provides a rare window of opportunity for people to advocate for the reopening of climbing areas at Gibraltar Rock and at Devil’s Lake State Park (South Bluff/Devil's Nose and the New Sandstone areas).

The comment period expires on November 2, 2023. So get in your comments soon!

Below is a link to the Master Plan page for the Central Sand Hills Region. Excerpts from the plan are highlighted below. I recommend reading the pages listed, as they will provide more insight into the DNR's plan around climbing access.

https://dnr.wisconsin.gov/topic/fl/PropertyPlanning/CentralSandHills?fbclid=IwAR3qXS8pAgB6Ufv8RUSPGQ7Y2uyVAuE-zhCHvqig-VsPWub-amJ0sraPfwM

Devils Lake Region - Climbing and Bouldering Section - Page 44-45
Climbing is allowed at the East Bluff State Natural Area, but no climbing is allowed in the South Bluff/Devil’s Nose State Natural Area.

Alternative 1: Status quo. Allow climbing and bouldering to continue at current locations.
Alternative 2: Allow climbing in additional locations within the park where no or minimal impacts to high-
quality cliff communities would occur.
Alternative 3: Establish a Climbing Advisory Committee to provide input and ideas for potential climbing
sites and approaches to minimize impacts to resources and other visitors to the property.

Devils Lake Region - Management Area: East Bluff State Natural Area - Page 49

This area, especially the trails along the top of the bluff, is heavily used and suffers from erosion, soil compaction, volunteer trails, and invasive species. The ecological values of the bedrock glade and talus here are very high quality and some of the best examples of these habitats in Wisconsin and the Midwest. Several rare plants are found here.

Alternative 1: Status quo.
Alternative 2: Redesign the existing hiking trail network to improve its sustainability and visitor
experiences, including eliminating, adding and re-routing trails as necessary.
Alternative 3: In collaboration with the Wisconsin Climbers Association, establish formal climbing
trails/routes on East Bluff.

Gibraltar Rock - Climbing and Bouldering Section - Page 89-90

Potential Alternatives related to climbing, bouldering, and scrambling

Alternative 1: Status quo. Prohibit climbing within the State Natural Area.
Alternative 2: Allow climbing in a limited area within the State Natural Area.
Alternative 3: Direct bouldering and scrambling to less-sensitive areas (e.g., areas without high-quality
populations of lichen, moss, invertebrate or other species of concern).