in 3 days.
Summit from 5900m camp
Everything we read about this mountain suggested it was fairly straight forward. I can 100 percent say it is not. Having climbed all over the world, this mountain can be incredibly dangerous. For some reason it is seen as an 'easy climb' but with the conditions we had this year, it was anything but. The biggest thing to put you off climbing here is PAMIR PEAKS - They are the WORST, most unsafe, lazy, poorist hygiene company I have ever had to be in contact with. There are no other competitors at basecamp so they run it - which means they try to save money everywhere. There is meant to be fixed lines of the steep parts (when I say steep I mean wrong footing will send you to your death) but this 'fixed rope' is like string and has one ancor and can be 200 m with just one poor placement!! It frays and could easily break. Be prepared to fixed your own rope! Expect some ice climbing - there's small sections which require very technical moves with heavy backpacks.
The food at BC is poison. Don't eat it. Even the water makes you sick because it is put below the toilet --- ridiculous.
BC has poor facilities except for the sauna. Everything else is rubbish - take your own tents and use low package - the high package say they give you BC tents but these are ancient pieces of cloth that are ripped to shreds and let water in. Avoid contact with PAMIR PEAKS in every way you can. Although you'll have to use the helicopter which they run.. Tradgically this crashed when we were there and 5 people lost their lives. It felt unsafe when we were in there, it flew so close to the ground. Another reason to avoid this mountain until things change.
Finally, they say they have guides.. These guides are not guides as most would expect. Some didn't even come to the mountain with ice axes or crampons. Some left their group, some threw safety out the window, some led their team in storms when they should have stopped, others left their clients to abseil themselves (when they didnt have experience) DO NOT COME HERE IF YOU CANNOT CLIMB WITHOUT A GUIDE - IT IS NOT RESPONSIBLE. We fixed our own ropes because didnt trust the fixed line.
Also, so many people on the mountain came without a rope!! INSANE! There is a huge crevasse field! I saw people falling in crevasses all the time!
Avalanches go off everywhere and rocks fall so much especially in the early sections.
I would like to put off everyone from climbing this until Pamir peaks go away. Every little thing comes together and makes it a disaster waiting to happen.
Phew! Needed to get that out. I am sure some people have had fine experiences when snow is great etc but so many factors make this a mountain not for the faint hearted. Miracle not more people died last season as horrible as that is to say. RIP those who were lost.
When the route is in good condition, it is a straightforward ascent. Fresh snow or the rare storm can make a big difference. The key is to have patience and the summit will come relatively easy.
Rather easy 3 day climb. Camp 1 (5300m.), Camp 2 (6300m.) and summit. Back to BC on summitday.
Normal route with Adventure peaks expedition. Summited with four others in great weather. Interesting but easy climb with fixed ropes (of goodish condition) in some sections but perfectly climbable without. Hidden crevasses between camp 1 and 2, also dangerous rockfall between camp 1 and 1 1/2 and scary crossing of glacier snout just before camp 1. Bring a helmet and a rope for the party unless you like "Russian style". Food in basecamp kitchen is full of E. Coli. Pretty much the whole base camp had food poisoning and many were flown out without climbing anything
Beautiful day, excellent views. Clouded a little going to the summit, but Peak Somoni across popped out from the clouds.
Summit with member of our Dutch Pamir 2010 team
Normal route with Sergey Penzov as mountain guide.
Summit from C3 - 6350 m in 6 hour.
From 6800 m we were in a snowy storm.
It was my first 7000!
Summit push from 6100m. Perfect morning and cloudy afternoon as usual.
Don't be surprised to meet a lot of people without sufficient climbing skills. Although some may claim that it is one of the easiest 7000er, accidents might and do happen on this mountain. Beware of falling stones and slippery ice-fields (especially at the end of the season) when approaching camp at 5800m as well as heading for 6100m. There should be fixed ropes installed in more complicated sections, but don’t rely on them too much (ropes might be quite old).
Overall it is an exceptionally beautiful peak and the normal route is indeed very attractive. You will climb rock and snow (including some steeper sections) and enjoy amazing panoramas over the Pamirs (especially high up on exposed summit ridge). Furthermore climbers do not have to acclimatize on the mountain itself, but can choose relatively easy nearby peaks (Peak Vorobjova and Peak Chetyreh (Peak of Four)) instead.
Clear moning and cloudy afternoon. Climbed the top with a clients 10 hours the round trip from 6100. Think it is the easiest of all the 7000ers for the former USSR
Summit with SPer Avner from Isreal/Toronto on Juli 29th. Skied from summit, and most of the summit ridge to below 6300m.