Mike Syvanen and I hiked up the road to the Harvard Mountaineering Hut near Huntington ravine from Pinkham Notch on Mt. Washington. The next morning we continued up to the base of the Gully. I soloed up the ice at the bottom to establish our first belay, staying to the left to avoid the water ice in the middle. I reached out over the ice to place an ice screw for the first belay and started to loose my balance. I jumped out on to the ice to catch my balance, but my crampons didn't bite into the ice (I should have sharpened them since climbing Denali the previous summer). I immediately accelerated down the ice, falling about 400 feet before I came to snow that slowed me to a stop before coming to the rocks lower down. My crampons catching in the snow had sprained one ankle and I had wrenched my shoulder. I still wanted to climb the gully so I worked my way back up to where I had fallen. My ankle wasn't too painful, but I asked Mike to do the leading because I didn't trust my ability with the injuries. 2/3s of the way up Mike asked me to take the lead, which I tried, but found to difficult with my injuries. Mike finished leading the climb, but at the top of the climb I found the pain unbearable when I put weight on my heel. I ended up crawling back down the ridge to the Harvard Hut. Other people at the hut arranged for a snow mobile to take me back down the road to our car. We made it back to Boston where I was able to join a party for Graham Arnold, who was finishing up his PhD in Professor Jim Kinsey's research group in the Chemistry Department at MIT.
dozens of times over the years
Great route, mixed snow and ice! Tried to summit Mount Washington from top of Pinnacle but was shut down due to high winds and bad visability!
Climbed with Brian, 3 long pitches. Summitted via the slopes dead-ahead, descended Lion's Head.
Climbed with Kevin, 3 long pitches. Great conditions en route. Walked across Alpine Garden, then summitted and descended via Lion's Head route.
what a gorgeous line! lead 3 pitches with partner Marc. Sunny and warm at the start, blustery and white out at the end. went left on pitch 1 with difficult ice instead of more moderate but wet/damned right side. descended via Lion Head. another awesome day on the hill!
Climbed in "Full" conditions, -6 degrees, 50mph winds. Running water under ice. Made for an interesting day.
Drove through the night from PA, parked at Pinkham, wasted some time finding the climb in the dense fog. Super fat conditions made the climb less challenging than expected, but the atmostphere was still great. Weather was beautiful. Climbing entangled with two other parties sucked. It'd be nice if people had some patience and waited in line like we did for the group ahead of us. Got back in the car at the end of the day and drove 10 hours home. Nice day-trip!
Definitely a classic.
Have climbed this route a dozen times over the past 6 years.
Always COLD, WINDY and crowded.
2" thick max. Always fun at this time of year. Also fun in April when it's 20' thick and easy plastic swingin'
October 14, 2007 - she no go!!
Hiked up from Pinkham Notch and met two friends at the Harvard Cabin. Climbed Pinnacle in fat conditions but had a late start (12:30 PM) after waiting for a slower group ahead of us. Another gully climb descended in the dark via the Lion Head Winter Route.
My introduction to NE ice. Nice climb, a bit thin that year.
a new england classic and many people know it. very crowded and very funneled. start early or late but dont follow. late applies to the more advanced climber