Very enjoyable climb with my son Christoph and our local guide, Carlo. The rock was fairly easy and quite brittle but climbing was somewhat tiring because we used crampons all the way to the broad summit. The downclimb on 50-55 degree soft snow to join the main Piz Palu trail was nerve wracking for me as I glanced at the exposed drops below us. We were the only climbers the entire time!
This was our last climb in the Bernina area - although I just might go back there some day - and it was a great one!
It was a long day though, and by the end of it, we were very tired.
Uninteresting route through bad rock. By contrast the ice pitches were more fun.
Climbed the summit together with guide Ernst. It's so nice to be climbing in the Bernina and not meeting any people all day!!! It's not the highest peak in the group but if you're looking for a real mountain-day with no tourists arround(like on Palü Ostgipfel) then this is the way to go. piz d'Arlas had too much snow so we decided to traverse back to the Eisnase about a third down the mountain.
Climbed the Ice Nose route by night free solo. The weatherforecast for the next day was bad, so we started at 11 pm. We reached the summit at 3:00 am and where back at the cable car at 6 am.