I thought worth doing compared to Curtain Call and Playwright. Take on the wide corner crack at the left end of the formation with some cool heal-toe. Secure solo if that is what you are at this wall to do. Scramble down left in short order. Dow
This would be the most entertaining lead on the wall if it were further established. As of 2018 it is just listed as a top rope, but there is plenty of trad on it. The route just needs a bolt or two up the arete. Fun climb, start in the Final Act left facing corner and stem up to mantle the huge chicken head. From there, follow great rock up the arete. Fun climbing includes a few face moves between the top of the arete and the roof pull hand crack above. Do the easy pull for the grade on varnished rock. Can be top roped from Curtain Call with a directional. It is just a top rope route, but worth doing compared to other routes on this wall. Dow
The two star recommendation in Miramontes guide indicates this to be one of the better climbs at its grade. But it is just average. The rock is great and makes for a relatively secure solo. Some juggy face along with staggered finger cracks. Gear and/or slung boulder top rope. Dow
Could be the best route on this wall. Start up the short right facing corner in a widening crack. A C4#4 protects this corner well but right above this wide section is a shallow, but good, C4#1 placement. Mantle up and cover some middle ground to a short, but steep, varnished crack with jugs. Standard single rack to #3 or #4. Dow
Climb the thin right crack to left seam just to the left of Beck’s corner and before the right facing corner of I’m So Embarrassed for You. Make some delicate slab/face moves up from there and eventually climb a hand crack above to easier ground and fixed rap. First half is intricate pro. Dow
A nice climbing left facing dihedral which is easy and serves as a good secure solo for the grade but the climbing peters out onto 4th class above. There is another fixed rap above this grouping of routes. Dow
As the others, most of these 5.7 crack climbs on this face are relatively secure (and easy) solos for the grade. At the base of twin cracks about a meter or two apart, start up the left one and traverse to the right one. Climbing at the grade peters out for the 2nd half. Dow
Uneventful secure solo varnished crack on the right side of the wall, left of the tree mid-way up the face. Even though Miramontes 3rd edition guide does not show it, there are two fixed raps atop the face. You can also scramble off left or right. Dow
SkydiveKen - Jan 21, 2013 2:30 am Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2013
Newbie
My first introduction to Joshua tree. managed 8 climbs before we called it a day. Nice in the morning sun but was in the shade by 1 pm.
Jeff and I attempted to climb here in the shade on our first day in the Park and quickly realized that wooden fingers are no bueno for chillin on zee rock in zee shade. Do as we say, not as we do! I downclimbed and we opted to head over to the Milepost to climb instead, more shivering!
Dow Williams - May 26, 2018 6:53 am
Final Act- 5.5I thought worth doing compared to Curtain Call and Playwright. Take on the wide corner crack at the left end of the formation with some cool heal-toe. Secure solo if that is what you are at this wall to do. Scramble down left in short order. Dow
Dow Williams - May 26, 2018 6:52 am
Break a Leg- 5.9*This would be the most entertaining lead on the wall if it were further established. As of 2018 it is just listed as a top rope, but there is plenty of trad on it. The route just needs a bolt or two up the arete. Fun climb, start in the Final Act left facing corner and stem up to mantle the huge chicken head. From there, follow great rock up the arete. Fun climbing includes a few face moves between the top of the arete and the roof pull hand crack above. Do the easy pull for the grade on varnished rock. Can be top roped from Curtain Call with a directional. It is just a top rope route, but worth doing compared to other routes on this wall. Dow
Dow Williams - May 26, 2018 6:50 am
Curtain Call- 80’-5.6**The two star recommendation in Miramontes guide indicates this to be one of the better climbs at its grade. But it is just average. The rock is great and makes for a relatively secure solo. Some juggy face along with staggered finger cracks. Gear and/or slung boulder top rope. Dow
Dow Williams - May 26, 2018 6:49 am
Psycho Groove- 80’-5.9*/Climb straight up a seam with pockets for pro until you reach the 2nd half of Curtain Call. Single bolt, thoughtful gear. Dow
Dow Williams - May 26, 2018 6:49 am
I'm (sic) So Embarrassed for You- 80’-5.7*Could be the best route on this wall. Start up the short right facing corner in a widening crack. A C4#4 protects this corner well but right above this wide section is a shallow, but good, C4#1 placement. Mantle up and cover some middle ground to a short, but steep, varnished crack with jugs. Standard single rack to #3 or #4. Dow
Dow Williams - May 26, 2018 6:48 am
Leading Lady- 80’-5.9RClimb the thin right crack to left seam just to the left of Beck’s corner and before the right facing corner of I’m So Embarrassed for You. Make some delicate slab/face moves up from there and eventually climb a hand crack above to easier ground and fixed rap. First half is intricate pro. Dow
Dow Williams - May 26, 2018 6:46 am
Beck’s Bear- 80’-5.7A nice climbing left facing dihedral which is easy and serves as a good secure solo for the grade but the climbing peters out onto 4th class above. There is another fixed rap above this grouping of routes. Dow
Dow Williams - May 26, 2018 6:46 am
Stucca by a Yucca- 90’-5.7As the others, most of these 5.7 crack climbs on this face are relatively secure (and easy) solos for the grade. At the base of twin cracks about a meter or two apart, start up the left one and traverse to the right one. Climbing at the grade peters out for the 2nd half. Dow
Dow Williams - May 26, 2018 6:44 am
Kline’s Incline- 90’-5.10aA contrived short top rope route that ties into Stucca by a Yucca. Dow
Dow Williams - May 26, 2018 6:41 am
Dress Rehearsal- 90’-5.7*Another secure feeling solo that did not feel any more difficult than the Playwright. Fixed rap at top (2018). Dow
Dow Williams - May 26, 2018 6:41 am
Playwright- 70’-5.6*Uneventful secure solo varnished crack on the right side of the wall, left of the tree mid-way up the face. Even though Miramontes 3rd edition guide does not show it, there are two fixed raps atop the face. You can also scramble off left or right. Dow
SkydiveKen - Jan 21, 2013 2:30 am Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2013
NewbieMy first introduction to Joshua tree. managed 8 climbs before we called it a day. Nice in the morning sun but was in the shade by 1 pm.
WML - Jan 3, 2011 1:57 am
brrrrrrrJeff and I attempted to climb here in the shade on our first day in the Park and quickly realized that wooden fingers are no bueno for chillin on zee rock in zee shade. Do as we say, not as we do! I downclimbed and we opted to head over to the Milepost to climb instead, more shivering!