Without doubt this would be hardest Skrlatica route if done in one day. But I also doubt that anyone does that. Usual starting point for this route would be Pogacnikov Dom hut (2050m) but first you have to get there. There are 4 possibilities to do that. Mountaineers usually approach it from Vrsic pass. Most of them climb Prisojnik (2547m)
or Razor (2601m) on the way. Majority of others come from Triglav (2864m)
or Dolic hut, via Luknja pass (1758m). Both ways are whole day hikes. Since this is Skrlatica page we have to drop that off.
Two other approaches come from Vrata and Trenta valleys. The one from Vrata is nice combination if you are planning to spend 2 days to climb Skrlatica (tough in one day). You can leave your car at Aljazev Dom hut and reach Pogacnikov Dom hut on the first day. Sleep over and on the second day climb Skrlatica and descent back to Vrata via Vrata Valley route. Route from Trenta is beautiful but little bit out of hand if you prefer to descent via some other route because your car is far away then.
Trenta – Pogacnikov Dom hut 4-5h + Pogacnikov Dom hut – Skrlatica 5h: Total 9-10h
Vrata – Pogacnikov Dom hut 4h + Pogacnikov Dom hut – Skrlatica 5h: Total 9
Aljazev Dom hut in Vrata valley - Pogacnikov Dom hut
How to access the hut check Vrata Valley route. From the hut you head up the valley, passing the monument to fallen Partisans in mountains in WW II. View of Triglav’s North face in fantastic. After some 15-20 minutes our path turns right and begins to ascent through beech forest. Further 30 minutes up there is a source. Soon you are on the junction at the bottom of Sovatna, large slope valley that is squeezed between Bovski Gamsovec (2392m), on the left and Stenar (2501m), on the right. Here you have 2 options to reach Pogacnikov Dom hut. Left path via Luknja pass (1758m) and Bovski Gamsovec (2392m) is tougher and much more beautiful with fantastic views, while the right path, via Sovatna and Dovska Vrata pass (2178m), where both trails join again, is shorter and easier.
Via Luknja Pass - 5 hours
Path continues straight forward. After passing by the Bivak pod Luknjo bivouac it reaches the steep scree slopes bellow the pass. Further up slope turns into steep gully, squeezed between the Triglav’s North face and cliffs of Bovski Gamsovec. You reach the pass 2 hours after departing from Aljazev Dom hut.
From the pass path turns right and climbs steep grassy slopes with few rocky steps (fixed ropes). After that path flattens for a moment as it reaches scree basin bellow the cliffs of Pihavec (2414m) and Bovski Gamsovec (2392m). Behind the basin path turn right and climbs exposed and steep grassy ridge with rocky steps. More exposed places are secured with fixed ropes. Cliffs are falling perpendicularly into Vrata valley, deep bellow and view back on Triglav is breathtaking. In 2 hours from Luknja pass you reach Bovski Gamsovec (2392m). Over the cliffs and narrow ridges you descent on Dovska Vrata pass (2178m) where you are joined with Sovatna trail.
Via Sovatna – 4 hours
From the junction path turns right and begins a long ascent up the steep valley, which is combination of steep grass, scree or rocky steps, which are secured on necessary spots. When you stop to rest you can enjoy fantastic view of Triglav. In some 2 hours you reach Dovska Vrata pass (2178m), where from the left we are joined by Luknja pass path.
30 minutes of gradual descent and you have reached Pogacnikov Dom hut.
Trenta valley - Pogacnikov Dom hut: 4-5h
Starting point of this trail is Zadnjica, Trenta’s side valley. From Kranjska Gora drive over a Vrsic pass (1611m) and descent into Trenta valley, on the other side. Vrsic road has 49 sharp bends. Each one of them is numbered and has altitude height for your information. After the 49th bend road straightens as it reaches the Soca River, which runs through Trenta valley. You continue down the valley till you reach Trenta village. Here, at the sharp bend 50, we leave main road and enter Zadnjica valley. After some 2 kilometers road is closed for public. From here we follow the left road, which will soon get you to the bottom station of Pogacnikov Dom hut load aerial ropeway. Park here. 1 hour on foot from Trenta village.
Wide path begins its gradual ascent in many sharp bends. At the beginning there is nice view on Beli Potok (white water) creek. Path is ascending through the forest, crossing few steep gullies, which on the left, from high above. Once you are out of the forest fantastic view of huge Beli Potok amphitheater or valley opens up. Above are massive cliffs of Planja (2447m) and Pihavec (2414m). Behind Planja, on the left, razor is also visible (2601m). Build path ascends in endless number of sharp bends with fantastic views that get better all the time till it reaches Pogacnikov Dom hut (2050m). At the bottom of the last ascent, in the huge basin, just right of the path is beautiful Spodnje Krisko Jezero (Lower Krisko Lake, 1880m), well worth of a short detour. Hut is 4 hours from the lower station, where you left your car.
Pogacnikov Dom hut - Skrlatica (2734m): 5h
On the junction left of the hut, high above Srednje Krisko Jezero (Mid Krisko Lake, 1939m) our path turns right. Over rocky terrain it ascends gradually at first, than steeply, left above the Zgornje Krisko Jezero (Upper Krisko lake, 2158m). Than path ascends to the right, steeply, over the ridge. From here a stunning view down the Kriska Stena face opens. On the left is towering Razor (2601m). After 1 hour from Pogacnikov Dom hut you reach Bovska Vratica pass (2375m), on the shoulder of Kriz peak (2410m). From here you can see Skrlatica (2740m) in distance, hovering above Dolkova Spica (2591m). Behind the pass path descends and soon we are joined by Krnica route, which comes from left after exiting Kriska Stena Face.
We continue straight, descending gradually towards the nearby junction. Straight down is towards Bivak IV bivouac and Vrata valley, while we turn left. Path is now mostly traversing large rocky slopes, going to the left, around huge and deep basin at the foothills of Dolkova Spica (2591m), which is strewn with huge boulders. Once around it, a tough ascent awaits. In front of us is 300 meters high scree slope that will end at the Rdeca Skrbina pass (2500m), a narrow door between Rogljica (2547m) and Dolkova Spica (2591m). From the pass full size of Skrlatica (2740m) gets into view. It is massive and occupies half of the viewing field. Even more frightening is that you just found out how you must first descent 200 meters into Zadnji Dolek basin, to reach the summit climb.
If you have strength and will don’t miss to climb Dolkova Spica (2591m), which is just dozen minutes away from here.
Behind the pass path descends steeply over red and slippery scree couloir. Once out of it, it turns right, going more gradually down. At the bottom of Zadnji Dolek you reach Vrata valley route. 3.45h from the Pogacnikov Dom hut.
Enormously tough section is ahead, summit climb. You are already tired so over hundred meters high soft scree slope will surely damage your nerves. One step forward and two steps back is the way it goes here. Ever moving path will take you up, to the right, where you enter the ferratta and Skrlatica summit climb. One more hour to go.
Numerous pegs and fixed steel ropes take you to the right climbing all the time. Cliffs are not too exposed and the ascent is amusing and attractive with few very interesting sections. Once you reach the south ridge path turns sharply left and you are out of the cliffs. Ridge to the summit is long, steep and quite exposed with fantastic panoramas. In 30 minutes you are standing bellow the cross on the summit of Skrlatica.
This is quite demanding route because of many major ups (3 times, 1065m) and downs (2 times, 400m).
In autumn, winter and spring ice axe, crampons, rope, helmet. In summer normal hiking gear + maybe a helmet