Dow Williams - Jun 22, 2023 11:29 am Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2023
Escape from Vaudeville, 5.8**
The local guide calls it “R”, but it has been retro bolted recently and is a well-protected worthy sport climb at the grade. Slab route on crystals with a small flake in the middle. Sustained at the grade to a fixed rap. Four bolts. 50’.
Dow Williams - Jun 22, 2023 11:28 am Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2023
Sugar Crack, 5.6***
A great secure solo to pair with Kim, which is located on the other side of the same formation. Sugar is mostly all hands until the end where you need to use a bit of OW skills. Rap Escape from Vaudeville, a bolted climb just to the right. Obvious right facing corner. 50’.
Dow Williams - Jun 22, 2023 11:25 am Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2023
Petit Crapon, 5.9**
I give it a bit less credit than the guide. Worth pairing with Fantasia for sure though. Chimney up the recess just to the right of Fantasia. Come to a small ledge and then continue up the finger crack to a flake (crux). Layback the flake without many crystals for your feet for a meter or two. The flake offered cool movement. Gear belay. Don’t know why the guide and MP.com act like this as two pitches. Would be foolish to split it up. Shares the same rap as Fantasia. Single to #4. 90’.
Dow Williams - Jun 22, 2023 11:21 am Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2023
Fantasia, 5.10****
An excellent moderate off-width at the Voo. Should see more traffic than it does. Supposedly was downgraded in a guide somewhere along the way from 5.10 (FA rating), but this is a typical 5.10 OW everywhere, including the Voo. Cruxy start, I forget which way I chose to face at the beginning, but remember switching sides several times. Crystals show up, but it is a true off width if leading because you will want the security. Knees and chicken wings both work some. Finding crystals for your feet make it all more plausible. One jam constriction rest right in the middle. MP.com discusses three #5’s. That is for sure overkill. Single from #4 to #6. Doubles #5 to #6 is all I used and felt good the whole way. 70’.
Dow Williams - Jun 22, 2023 11:20 am Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2023
Kim, 5.6****
This has to be one of the best 5.6’s at the Voo, albeit maybe not long enough to qualify. Perfect finger crack on the low angled slab way up and left from Fantasia. A secure and fun solo or take finger pieces. Has its own fixed rap, but easier to rap Fantasia’s station if you left your gear at its base. The rap atop Fantasia directionally is set up to take you to the base of Petit Crapon. 50’.
Dow Williams - Jun 22, 2023 11:18 am Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2023
Cut Off My Legs and Call Me Shorty, 5.10a**
An off-width worth doing, too short is its only issue. At the far-right side of the Skull Area is this 30’ OW. Scramble up the easy ground right of the route and traverse back left across a ledge around a boulder to the base of the wide left leaning splitter. Chimney up to the start of the wide. The crux is getting started in the splitter, it is physical and awkward and your gear can be in the way if you are not paying attention. Good news is that it is mostly solid hands, but you will be off center with your feet. Gear belay on top, walk off climber’s right. Single from #2 to #4 + a #6. 35’.
Dow Williams - Sep 18, 2018 2:00 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2018
Overload- 70’-5.9***
The guide’s topo and text is dated. The fixed rap is after the squeeze chimney on top. Not near as good as the Skull but worthy pursuit if on the shared ledge. Locate the splitter hand crack at the left end. Climb it easily for the grade to the squeeze chimney at top which is climbed at a lessor grade, but no gear. Rap chains up and right. Single to C4#4. Dow
Dow Williams - Sep 18, 2018 1:59 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2018
Skull- 80’-5.10a***
Athletic climb, but more straight forward than many 5.10-’s in Vedauwoo. Really fun movement. Locate the large right facing stacked corner. 5th class it up to the base of the slightly overhanging hand crack. The rock has a polished feel on the entire route. Climb the corner with the crux getting your left leg up to a stance at the end. Bottom line, move fast that last meter of the first corner. Some more easy ground leads to the wide crack (C4#4) above. Turn around at the appropriate stance and chimney off the right wall in space. There is a small gear seam on the right wall for gear. The guide says this section is easier than it looks and it is correct. Single to C4#4. Double from C4#.75-#2. An off-set will place well in that seam. Chain anchors up and left. Dow
SarahThompson - Feb 29, 2016 10:15 am Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2014
Best
7/19/14 - I love this cool hunk of rock. It is certainly the most exciting "hill" I have ever climbed. Spent a day climbing routes all over this thing including a couple that went to the summit.
9/10/16 - Went back for another day of fine climbing.
Dow Williams - Jun 22, 2023 11:29 am Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2023
Escape from Vaudeville, 5.8**The local guide calls it “R”, but it has been retro bolted recently and is a well-protected worthy sport climb at the grade. Slab route on crystals with a small flake in the middle. Sustained at the grade to a fixed rap. Four bolts. 50’.
Dow Williams - Jun 22, 2023 11:28 am Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2023
Sugar Crack, 5.6***A great secure solo to pair with Kim, which is located on the other side of the same formation. Sugar is mostly all hands until the end where you need to use a bit of OW skills. Rap Escape from Vaudeville, a bolted climb just to the right. Obvious right facing corner. 50’.
Dow Williams - Jun 22, 2023 11:25 am Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2023
Petit Crapon, 5.9**I give it a bit less credit than the guide. Worth pairing with Fantasia for sure though. Chimney up the recess just to the right of Fantasia. Come to a small ledge and then continue up the finger crack to a flake (crux). Layback the flake without many crystals for your feet for a meter or two. The flake offered cool movement. Gear belay. Don’t know why the guide and MP.com act like this as two pitches. Would be foolish to split it up. Shares the same rap as Fantasia. Single to #4. 90’.
Dow Williams - Jun 22, 2023 11:21 am Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2023
Fantasia, 5.10****An excellent moderate off-width at the Voo. Should see more traffic than it does. Supposedly was downgraded in a guide somewhere along the way from 5.10 (FA rating), but this is a typical 5.10 OW everywhere, including the Voo. Cruxy start, I forget which way I chose to face at the beginning, but remember switching sides several times. Crystals show up, but it is a true off width if leading because you will want the security. Knees and chicken wings both work some. Finding crystals for your feet make it all more plausible. One jam constriction rest right in the middle. MP.com discusses three #5’s. That is for sure overkill. Single from #4 to #6. Doubles #5 to #6 is all I used and felt good the whole way. 70’.
Dow Williams - Jun 22, 2023 11:20 am Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2023
Kim, 5.6****This has to be one of the best 5.6’s at the Voo, albeit maybe not long enough to qualify. Perfect finger crack on the low angled slab way up and left from Fantasia. A secure and fun solo or take finger pieces. Has its own fixed rap, but easier to rap Fantasia’s station if you left your gear at its base. The rap atop Fantasia directionally is set up to take you to the base of Petit Crapon. 50’.
Dow Williams - Jun 22, 2023 11:18 am Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2023
Cut Off My Legs and Call Me Shorty, 5.10a**An off-width worth doing, too short is its only issue. At the far-right side of the Skull Area is this 30’ OW. Scramble up the easy ground right of the route and traverse back left across a ledge around a boulder to the base of the wide left leaning splitter. Chimney up to the start of the wide. The crux is getting started in the splitter, it is physical and awkward and your gear can be in the way if you are not paying attention. Good news is that it is mostly solid hands, but you will be off center with your feet. Gear belay on top, walk off climber’s right. Single from #2 to #4 + a #6. 35’.
Dow Williams - Sep 18, 2018 2:00 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2018
Overload- 70’-5.9***The guide’s topo and text is dated. The fixed rap is after the squeeze chimney on top. Not near as good as the Skull but worthy pursuit if on the shared ledge. Locate the splitter hand crack at the left end. Climb it easily for the grade to the squeeze chimney at top which is climbed at a lessor grade, but no gear. Rap chains up and right. Single to C4#4. Dow
Dow Williams - Sep 18, 2018 1:59 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2018
Skull- 80’-5.10a***Athletic climb, but more straight forward than many 5.10-’s in Vedauwoo. Really fun movement. Locate the large right facing stacked corner. 5th class it up to the base of the slightly overhanging hand crack. The rock has a polished feel on the entire route. Climb the corner with the crux getting your left leg up to a stance at the end. Bottom line, move fast that last meter of the first corner. Some more easy ground leads to the wide crack (C4#4) above. Turn around at the appropriate stance and chimney off the right wall in space. There is a small gear seam on the right wall for gear. The guide says this section is easier than it looks and it is correct. Single to C4#4. Double from C4#.75-#2. An off-set will place well in that seam. Chain anchors up and left. Dow
SarahThompson - Feb 29, 2016 10:15 am Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2014
Best7/19/14 - I love this cool hunk of rock. It is certainly the most exciting "hill" I have ever climbed. Spent a day climbing routes all over this thing including a couple that went to the summit.
9/10/16 - Went back for another day of fine climbing.
5/14/17 - Another day of cragging.
9/1/18 - Just can't get enough.