Primus Peak Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-6 of 6

setrent - Sep 8, 2017 12:14 am Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2017

From Austera  Sucess!

Great views!


gimpilator - Jul 16, 2017 1:14 am Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2017

Inspiration Traverse  Sucess!

Thanks for going back Josh! Trip report


seano - Jul 24, 2016 11:20 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2016

Via Thunder Creek  Sucess!

Pretty decent climbers' trail up the ridge from McAllister camp, though it's easy to lose on the way down. I should have tagged its neighbors, but bailed on a partly-cloudy day. Trip report.

Josh Lewis

Josh Lewis - May 24, 2016 1:40 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2015

West Ridge via Inspiration Traverse  Sucess!

From Austera this peak was straight forward to the summit. Getting off of it was a lot trickier than I had imagined. Due to the glacier retreating, the glacier is now separated from the north face creating large cliff bands with loose rock followed by a moat. While technically possible to descend on the north west side, go down to Lucky Pass if you can. If you descend to Lucky Pass you will have to navigate back west and do a long route to avoid going down the Lucky Pass ice fall.

Another alternative is to do this May through June.

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Aug 6, 2015 12:59 am Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2015

Via west ridge after Austera on Inspiration Traverse  Sucess!

Since I knew the descent off Lucky Pass would be a "no-go" due to the rock hard ice, we climbed west up a huge glacier to the south of Primus and met the west ridge at 7,800 feet. We ascended the west ridge to 8,200 feet and dropped the packs at the small notch. Finished the peak, then returned to our packs and took a narrow and loose ledge down from the 8,200 foot notch towards the small glacier to the NW of the peak. The ledge ended and we were forced to do a scary 50 foot rappel to the snow below down a hideous gully with multiple death blocks above us. Once on the snow it was an easier walk to the low point in the north ridge where we were able to drop to Borealis Lake on the grassy ridge I explored three years prior. Getting around this peak in late season to complete the Inspiration Traverse is getting tricky.


relic - Sep 18, 2011 1:13 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2009

Via ski  Sucess!

Another great area, backcountry skier's nirvana. Skied over from Eldo, then down around to North Klawatti Glacier. Early season usually makes crevasse danger almost non-existant, as long as one pays attention to route. I certainly felt like I was in the remote-est of the remote back there, the wall of Austera looming over the glacier made it all feel rather arctic.

Viewing: 1-6 of 6
Return to 'Primus Peak' main page