Pumping Nuns

Overview

"Pumping Nuns" is a one pitch rock climb located on the south face of The Convent. It is around to the right from the route referenced in Moser/Vernon Domelands guide as Rock My Soul, and on the opposite side of the deep slot (The Valley of Death) as Kaddish and closer to the entrance. Between Rock my Soul and Pumping Nuns you will see an unfinished project.

Pumping Nuns climbs steep orange rock starting through a small bulge (there are usually fixed wires here or rig your own, or highball it to the first bolt.) Athletic moves up a left facing corner gain the second bolt, and a thin traverse out right gains the third. Moving up into the crux one can place a nice stopper (about a #5 rock) or just push through. Then a 1.5 - 2 inch cam protects the moves onto another headwall and the last bolt. A fixed anchor awaits at the top.

Once in sight of the rock, about the same view as the picture here, one can take the Domelands trail up to the pass to the right of the Ayatolla and turn up left there, or one can take a direct line up under the Rectory or The Synagogue and scramble up to The Valley of Death from there.

Essential Gear

The start can be protected by tiny wired stoppers. These were left fixed on the F.A. There are four bolts, a medium sized nut (about 3/8" - 1/2",) a 1.5 - 2" cam and perhaps another piece or two at each climber's discretion. A single 60m rope will suffice to rap or lower from the fixed anchor.

Pumping Nuns has bolts, but it is not exactly a sport climb. Most climbers will want to use some gear in addition to the existing bolts.

First Ascent

Kris Solem & Guy Keesee, July 1993. Ground up, of course.

Images

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