Forgot headlamp....sorry Cissa. Retreated after first rockband. North face was in good condition, amount of (new) snow on summit was in question.
Partner forgot headlamp at base camp but we still attempted. Managed to get past first rockband but decided to get down after about 200m.
Climbed with Kevin. Good climb to acclimatize for more technical 6,000m peaks. Not super technical but more than just a walk-up.
Started at the Col camp at 2. Reached the ridge at about 10. Could do with about 4 pitches of belayed climbing.
We left (a little too late) from a camp well below the lakes. The route had three entertaining mixed pitches with snow slogging in between. My partner and I soloed most of the route and only roped up for the rock bands. It seems that many parties use this strategy. Unfortunately, my partner and I topped out in a lightning/blizzard storm and had some serious difficulties in finding the rappel route down the normal route. The word from other climbers is that the rappels are completely wired. However, we discovered that you can rap down just about any part of the face surrounding the normal route in a blizzard. The spindrift and funky rap anchors made the decent rather invigorating. I don’t recommend our decent strategy, but if you find yourself in a blizzard, maybe you will find some of our anchors…I would back them up!
6h for the face, some rock and mixed (up to 4) to reach summit platform. 1.5h to true summit.
some rockfall on descent.
david bruder&steffi schroeder
Long climb ower the more or less rocky ridge.