Ref.Portillon-glacier of Baquo

Page Type
France, Europe
Route Type:
Spring, Summer, Fall
Time Required:
A long day
F. sup. (I +)
Rock Difficulty:
5.2 (YDS)

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Ref.Portillon-glacier of Baquo
Created On: Jul 1, 2009
Last Edited On: Jul 1, 2009


This is a good climbr for the people in Refuge du Portillon. The glacier is small and is the shortest option from the North. If you love rock-climb you can turn to Puerto de Oô to use the west ridge from the point of entry of glacier but is harder and longer.

Getting There

See the main page to approach to Refuge du Portillon from Granges d'Astau (walk of 4h30min) the previous day.

Route Description

Last meters to Cap dera Baquo OccidentalCap dera Baquo Occ.
Cap dera Baquo Occidental (3.097m)Entering from glacier

We leave the Refuge to right side (S.W.) across some rocky terraces under the peak Tussé de Montarcqué in direction to a col with a pluviometer (rain gauge). In the small col we turn to left (South) entering in the upper part of glacier of Baquo. This traverse is short but in summer you has the ice of the glacier and you need generally the use of crampons. In spring the snow is soft and you don´t need crampons many sunny days. In the small shoulder over the glacier we reach the bottom of a cracked area under Cap dera Baquo Occidental. We attack the ridge for the right side across a lot of stones and sand. After this bad terrain we reach the easy pile of stones under the summit and we reach the top of Cap dera Baquo Occidental (3.097m). From this summit the route is the same of the West ridge.

Essential Gear

Crampons and ice-axe but not always. A good option is call to Refuge du Portillon to know the conditions of the season.

External Links

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Ref.Portillon-glacier of Baquo

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