Floridaputz - Feb 21, 2019 12:48 pm - Hasn't voted
Cables Route
After doing the keyhole a few times my partner and I decided to the cables route. Because this peak is so easy to get to, we continue to look for new ways to climb it. Once we attained the boulder field we just aimed for the ridge before the obvious rock rib, and traversed and climbed up to chasm view, which is right before the climbs start. Please don't skip chasm view, that is truly one of the highlights of this climb. Some people climb directly up from the boulder field campsite. Climb up some 4th class slabs to the start of the route. An old eye bolt marks the beginning of the climb. A Low angle crack with chock stones heads up a wet and running face. The slab has been worn by the countless accents up this rock. It is SLICK. but the low 5th class climbing is either 2 short pitches or one long pitch. We just brought a 8.5 mm rope and a very small rack. once to the top of the roped climbing you move up and left til a gully leads to the top. This part is pretty fun, you are very close to the edge of the east face and it has great exposure without really being that hard. this goes very quick, and you are at the summit before you know it. I think this is the fastest way off longs and can see why people use it for a quick decent.
Matt Lemke - Apr 1, 2013 9:00 pm - Voted 10/10
Excellent work!Well done on this one Kiefer! My vote is updated
Floridaputz - Feb 21, 2019 12:48 pm - Hasn't voted
Cables RouteAfter doing the keyhole a few times my partner and I decided to the cables route. Because this peak is so easy to get to, we continue to look for new ways to climb it. Once we attained the boulder field we just aimed for the ridge before the obvious rock rib, and traversed and climbed up to chasm view, which is right before the climbs start. Please don't skip chasm view, that is truly one of the highlights of this climb. Some people climb directly up from the boulder field campsite. Climb up some 4th class slabs to the start of the route. An old eye bolt marks the beginning of the climb. A Low angle crack with chock stones heads up a wet and running face. The slab has been worn by the countless accents up this rock. It is SLICK. but the low 5th class climbing is either 2 short pitches or one long pitch. We just brought a 8.5 mm rope and a very small rack. once to the top of the roped climbing you move up and left til a gully leads to the top. This part is pretty fun, you are very close to the edge of the east face and it has great exposure without really being that hard. this goes very quick, and you are at the summit before you know it. I think this is the fastest way off longs and can see why people use it for a quick decent.