Your description and excellent photos accompanying really had me conjuring up a very clear impression of the route in my head as I read it. Sometimes a great (and perhaps possibly dangerous) route needs a detailed description, and this one certainly fits the bill. You wrote the thing as I would have written it. This is a great mountain, made even more so by your excellent description of the route. Great photos, too. I usually don't vote on photos, but I did on a few of these, especially if they provided good route info in the captions. Well done! Thanks a bunch!
I thought your route description was great! It was a great guide for my groups first time up the peak. There was only place where we got off route. Once we exited the couloir for the second time we ended up further west (eventually summiting on the west peak) in search of the stable blocks and gully you spoke of. It would almost be a better to tell people to look for the dirt path to the east that follows the top of the wall lining the couloir you exited. We did discover this path on our way back much to our elation. Thanks for the sweet trip log and your pictures are great.
We were a group of three guys from Missoula. I'm a chemistry student at the U and Gerald Olbu is one of my profesors. We went out this Sunday armed with your route description, and a napkin map Gerald had drawn me. Getting off route at the top made for a few tense moments with large commitment, but all in all the trip was fantastic. Do you have any advice on how to find the slab sneak on the way back?
In the late spring/early summer with adequate snow in the couloir, the out-and-back diversion on the slabs can be skipped and the chockstone in the couloir climbed directly (if there is adequate snow for it to still be mostly buried). Crampons and an axe necessary.
Thanks for the route info--it was very helpful! I was unnecessarily intimidated by the description of 5th class moves at the top. However, this step is easily circumnavigated to the south 15 ft. There is a little bit more exposure, but keeps it 3rd class.
There is some exposure up high. And the slabs in the center may be found to be unnerving to those without rock climbing experience, but all in all, I found this to be a relatively nice and relaxed route and think it should be on more intermediate scramblers radar. Trailhead is only 2 hours from Missoula, the trail now goes all the way to Gem lake, only 4000', 8 miles , no technical moves, just enough exposure, 3 lakes, and exquisite alpine scenery. Given that so many approaches in the Bitteroot are long and difficult for an average party, this was a welcome reprieve. A real moderate classic (although-real hazards exists--mainly rock fall in the steep gullies and potential for rain on slab).
Aaron Johnson - Oct 25, 2006 12:36 am - Voted 10/10
Fabulous!Your description and excellent photos accompanying really had me conjuring up a very clear impression of the route in my head as I read it. Sometimes a great (and perhaps possibly dangerous) route needs a detailed description, and this one certainly fits the bill. You wrote the thing as I would have written it. This is a great mountain, made even more so by your excellent description of the route. Great photos, too. I usually don't vote on photos, but I did on a few of these, especially if they provided good route info in the captions. Well done! Thanks a bunch!
M@ - Sep 10, 2007 2:53 pm - Voted 10/10
Great!!I thought your route description was great! It was a great guide for my groups first time up the peak. There was only place where we got off route. Once we exited the couloir for the second time we ended up further west (eventually summiting on the west peak) in search of the stable blocks and gully you spoke of. It would almost be a better to tell people to look for the dirt path to the east that follows the top of the wall lining the couloir you exited. We did discover this path on our way back much to our elation. Thanks for the sweet trip log and your pictures are great.
Michael Hoyt - Sep 10, 2007 6:27 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great!!Thanks for the compliments on the description. I took your advice and made a few working changes to the route. I hope it reads better.
How many in your group? Everyone from Missoula? When did you climb?
M@ - Sep 10, 2007 9:03 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Great!!We were a group of three guys from Missoula. I'm a chemistry student at the U and Gerald Olbu is one of my profesors. We went out this Sunday armed with your route description, and a napkin map Gerald had drawn me. Getting off route at the top made for a few tense moments with large commitment, but all in all the trip was fantastic. Do you have any advice on how to find the slab sneak on the way back?
andrewmayer - Aug 30, 2014 8:35 pm - Hasn't voted
Couloir DirectIn the late spring/early summer with adequate snow in the couloir, the out-and-back diversion on the slabs can be skipped and the chockstone in the couloir climbed directly (if there is adequate snow for it to still be mostly buried). Crampons and an axe necessary.
bstampe - Sep 8, 2020 9:39 am - Hasn't voted
ClassicThanks for the route info--it was very helpful! I was unnecessarily intimidated by the description of 5th class moves at the top. However, this step is easily circumnavigated to the south 15 ft. There is a little bit more exposure, but keeps it 3rd class.
There is some exposure up high. And the slabs in the center may be found to be unnerving to those without rock climbing experience, but all in all, I found this to be a relatively nice and relaxed route and think it should be on more intermediate scramblers radar. Trailhead is only 2 hours from Missoula, the trail now goes all the way to Gem lake, only 4000', 8 miles , no technical moves, just enough exposure, 3 lakes, and exquisite alpine scenery. Given that so many approaches in the Bitteroot are long and difficult for an average party, this was a welcome reprieve. A real moderate classic (although-real hazards exists--mainly rock fall in the steep gullies and potential for rain on slab).